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Montana Deviate 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Doug Couleur, Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 28
Submitted By: George Perkins on May 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

There's some ambiguity about this climb; 5.9 leaders beware.

All 3 guidebooks show this as a 2-bolt variation to Holy Wars (5.11a), angling right after the 3rd bolt. However, most figure the crux of Holy Wars is probably the sequency moves on pockets on a slightly overhanging face before the first 2 bolts, which would be shared with Mont. Deviate, which calls into question the 5.9+ rating. However, the text description in Rock Climbing: New Mexico, but not the topo, says "to climb a crack, then pass a diagonal crack, then past 2 bolts", which would avoid the Holy Wars crux by climbing an independent start to the right, which might keep it at 5.9.

In either case, the upper section of this climb is steep, uncharacteristically textured & featured with knobs, and a better-protected but less aesthetic option than the upper part of Holy Wars. Angle left at the top to reach the Holy Wars anchor, which may be inconvenient for those following or toproping.

Location 

Start as for Holy Wars, but go right after the 3rd bolt, or climb directly up to these bolts following a hand crack.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, shared with Holy Wars
or
Trad gear, then 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, shared with Holy Wars


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