Mont de l'Ours Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: La Directe P2 left crack 5.8+ variation
As you come into the parc, Mont de l'Ours is the first main cliff visible on the right side (east).
The cliff is a mix of cracks in the moderate range 5.5 - 5.9+
It faces the west so it's pretty useful for the limits of the rock climbing season.
All routes are trad with some glued bolted belay/rap stations.
Having 2 ropes is mandatory since a lot of the routes in the park can be 50m stretchers, there are no intermediate rap stations.
the main rap is going down La Directe's glue-ins, just be careful when pulling the rope on the last rap, there's a lot of slots, flakes and pockets to that may turn your evening into an epic getting your rope unstuck.
Drive and park at the welcome center, pay your daily fee, and hike out using the trail located just in the back of the building.
take direction Mont Lac des Cygnes and look for a trail on the left after 100m or so.
15 minute approach, the last stretch can be tricky early season, especially if the handrail rope is buried.
Climbing Season For the Quebec City, Charlevoix, Portneuf area.
Weather station 8.3 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Mont de l'Ours
Pinocchio 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c North America
: ... : Mont de l'Ours
The route start in the obvious hollow. Pitch 1: Establish yourself under the little roof and pass it on your left. Boulder up to the top of the broken hollow and reach the slab. Follow the crack system until you reach a fixed anchor, clip it and traverse left to another fixed anchor which is more convenient for belaying. (5.8)Pitch 2: Follow the crack system above the belay to the vertical section, pass it to gain some moderate terrain. Keep following the crack system to another vertical section...[more] Browse More Classics in International
BETA PHOTO: Busy Belay-Rap area
BETA PHOTO: Crappy get your rope stuck rap