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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jason Huston and Dylan Johnson (11/06)
Page Views: 2,824
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Oct 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Thad Arnold wrestles with a Monster. Photo by Mat...

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Monster starts as a tricky tips crack that gradually opens up to fingers and hands.

The technical crux comes fairly low, but after a couple of decent rests in the middle you'll still find yourself looking at a good deal of ever-widening hands before you reach the chains.

The opening sequences can be made significantly easier if you cheat a bit by laybacking and using the next crack over to the left, but if you're a purist try going straight in.

This is an incredibly fun route.


Just to the right of JR Token. Start on the block and climb the chalked tip jams on your right.


Small gear (tips) to large hands.

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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Oct 28, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

The consensus on the grade of this route from many who climb at the crag regularly as well as some very talented visiors is that it's more of a 12-. In either case, come expecting thin locks, bad feet, and difficulties seeing the next good lock right off the deck.
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 4, 2009

Well that makes me feel a little bit better about my effort. I thought that the opening moves were pretty burly for an 11.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

So, despite my comment above, I (and a few others) now feel slightly differently about the grade. Shortly after the consensus bumped it up to 12-, new beta came to light and now I'm skeptical of whether or not the rating is consistent with other routes of the grade at the crag. In any case, know that if you figure out the easy beta, it's going to be a very quick tick for Trout 12-.
By Alex Shainman
Jun 2, 2013

Fun splitter after the crux. Painful start! Ouch!
By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 2, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Would love to see the "easy" beta for this. I worked this a bunch with a handful of folks who all flashed 12a in the Lower Gorge and no one ever got it clean.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Mar 7, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

  • *Full Beta Spraydown Alert!*

Right hand thumbs up in the first (and really only) good lock off the block. Oppose this with your right foot on a small half-moon divot on the right wall. (usually a little black from shoe rubber) Palm the left arete at hip height and hand-foot match with your left foot. Left hand up to the crimp just left of the arete. Jam right toe in the crack. (exactly where is height dependent) Toss for the next good lock with your right hand thumbs up.

From this point every move is successively easier. (but still pumpy) Knowing which gear to place can make a world of difference moving through the fingers section above the rail.
By kerwinl
Sep 27, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

If you have big hands and fingers expect it to still feel hard for 11+, FWIW I thought the opening on this was significantly harder then the Alchemy crux or a few of the other 12- on the main wall. Either way its a great route, with solid gear.

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