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Monster North

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Abominable Snowman 
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Monster Gully 
Picture Window 
Shakers 

Monster North Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 5,283'
Location: 43.8832, -103.46319 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,826
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 28, 2002
Forecast:
Tonight

45°
Friday

63° | 42°
Saturday

48° | 39°
Sunday

45° | 36°
Monday

45° | 34°
Tuesday

52° | 36°
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Phil Watts on Gossamer.

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Description 

Another easy to access Rushmore area with fun climbs of a variety of difficulties. I would guess the most popular route in the area is the beautiful 'Gossamer'.

Getting There 

The Monster North area is another one that is easy to find and easy to get lost in. From the sign in board, take a left down the main trail. The main wall you see at the kiosk is known as Monster North.

To access most of the routes you'll head left on the trail from the sign in board.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

34 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',4],['5.11',6],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Monster North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Monster North:
Salt and Pepper Shaker   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad   Shakers
Butter Knife   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad   Shakers
Gossamer   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Picture Window
Sulley   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Monster Gully
Pointy Little Devil   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 115'   Shakers
Dark Tower   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 80'   Shakers
Monster Within   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Monster Gully
Too Easy for Hard Men   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Abominable Snowman
Kodah   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 95'   Axe Edge
Belmont Brie   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Abominable Snowman
Corruption is Contagious   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   Abominable Snowman
Skid Marks   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Shakers
Creature Comforts   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Abominable Snowman
Hill City Shootout: Bullets Not Blanks   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 120'   Abominable Snowman
Lost Boy's Shadow   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 60'   Monster Gully
Side Arm   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Abominable Snowman
The Nightman Cometh   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 200'   Shakers
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Monster North

Featured Route For Monster North
Rock Climbing Photo: When heading up toward Teachers Pet, Pointy Little...

Crystal Ship 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : ... : Abominable Snowman
Crystal Ship, named in memory of Steve Badour (and his favorite band), is across and slightly up the gully from Teachers Pet. From the base, scramble up the easy gully 20', then move left along a small ledge to clip the first bolt. Straight up from there . . . enjoy!There are some interesting thoughts about reasons behind the name of the tune "The Crystal Ship" Check'em out....[more]   Browse More Classics in South Dakota

Photos of Monster North Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Molly Jane on Gossamer
Molly Jane on Gossamer
Rock Climbing Photo: Monster area sunset from Summit of marker
Monster area sunset from Summit of marker
Rock Climbing Photo: Junk on Gossamer
Junk on Gossamer
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric on Gossamer
Eric on Gossamer
Rock Climbing Photo: Caleb on-sightingn -- Gossamer
Caleb on-sightingn -- Gossamer
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Monster area from South Seas.
BETA PHOTO: View of Monster area from South Seas.

Comments on Monster North Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Dewell
Sep 9, 2002
To anyone who is interested...

There are some sketchy bolts that could use replacing on Mooshie Monster Farts in the Monster Area. I know Bob and Ron are always doing these types of things, and with the tools to do so expediently, perhaps this is a route you could fix? Just a suggestion. It's just such a terrific route, I would hate to have something like an accident or a broken anchor stop somebody from trying it.

Thanks!Dan
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 12, 2002
You know about the sketchy bolt anchors, why don't you go and fix them. Why should everyone expect a couple few to fix everything for the rest of us. Who knows when they will find out about the bolts or they may even have routes that are of a higher priority to fix.
By Dan Dewell
Oct 6, 2002
When I suggested 'someone' fix the anchors/bolts on Mooshie Monster Farts I did so because I do not have the tools to fix them myself. Plus, Bob, Ron, and whoever else is doing the retro-bolting do a wonderful job. If I had the equipment I would do it, but I don't. So...if someone would like to look at said route, a few of us believe it deserves some attention. Thanks!!!!!
By MELINDA
Jun 9, 2017
For first time climbers in the area, figuring out which pulloff to park at/finding the trailhead with the sign-in khiosk, and finding the routes in the Monster, Marker, Shaker area MIGHT be challenging. There are some contradicting information in the descriptions and comments. I really love MP but sometimes it's best to buy the book. My boyfriend and I used MP to find the area and routes and both struggled. He has a great amount of expirence and the directions still stumped him. Once we actually figured out where to park and sign-in we made our way to the base of the correct area. Then the biggest challenge was finding where the routes were... We didn't want to be overly confident and jump on routes we thought were the correct ones. The confusing directions for all of the routes led us to frustration and disappointment. My boyfriend has decades of expirence and skill and he wasn't just going to jump on a route he wasn't sure was correct. I followed his lead and failed to figure out what routes we were looking at. From leaving the campground to finally giving up and driving to Hills City to buy the book was about a three hour adventure. BtW, nowhere in the town of Keystone has any guide books! You must go to Hill City which is about 20-30 min away from Keystone. Go to Granite Sports. They had a great selection of books and were very nice and helpful! We bought "The Needles of Mount Rushmore" by Andrew Nurse and Andrew Burr. It was recommended to us and we heard from others this was the book to get. If the weather turns and starts hailing and storming for food stop in Desparados for some food! Great prices for the area and very friendly staff. When we finally got back to climbing using the book got us quickly to where we wanted to climb and with their helpful descriptions we found the routes immediately and we got to climb! I recommend to routes in Magna Carta, Picture Window routes.. cool, unique routes. Getting to the arête can be spooky of you don't like a lot of exposure. Layback moves are key to make it more fun and less challenging. Placing fear towards to the of any of the routes on this wall can be tricky and spooky with the exposure I mentioned before.
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Jun 10, 2017
Hey Melinda,
I will try and update some of the info in the coming days. This has never been an issue for anyone passing through. When I first moved to the Hills Years ago there wasn't a current guidebook and I still seem to find everything. With that said I'm not saying that it is an easy place and agree it is VERY EASY to get turned around. Hope you ended up finding some good climbs to get on in the area. Thanks, Mike

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