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Monster Magnet's popularity has suffered because most people would rather succeed on CHUD
, a soft 13a, than flail on a brutal 12d. Beyond ratings, this route has amazing rock, great movement, and is one of the best bouldery 12+ routes in the canyon. If this thing ever gets bumped to 13a, it will see more ascents.
Short and powerful, Monster Magnet packs the majority of its difficulty into a devious 20 foot V7 boulder problem. Enjoy a small rest, and then navigate through some pumpy slopers, sidepulls and pinches to the top.
Left of CHUD
, Monster Magnet is the middle bolt line and starts in a small, left-facing, layback feature.
Five quickdraws plus 2 for the anchor. Since the anchor consist of a hanger, and an eye bolt, you may want to bring a leaver biner for the hanger so you can lower off 2 bolts. A 50 meter rope will easily get you back to the ground.
By Ben Sachs
Sep 26, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Satisfying boulder problem ending at huge jug into some 12- climbing. Great stone throughout. Not sure how this was ever 12d?(!) At least V7 boulder problem. 13a in newest guide. I added a legit anchor with chains/biners as of Sept. 2015.