REI Community
(7) Gods and Monsters Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belly of the Beast T 
Buddha Belly S 
Crackalicous T 
Crouching Climber Ridden Dragon S 
Getting It Up For The Crack Of Dawn T 
Goddess of Virtue  S 
In Godzilla We Trust T 
KnowWhatIMean T 
Monster Crack T 
Morosoarus S 
Nosferatu T 
Oroboros T 
Power Child S 
Primal Institution  S 
Project 1 T 
Project 2 TR 
Project 3 T 
Red Headed Yeti, The T 
Shaken T 
Sphinx, The S 
Taken S 
Trapped In Time / Medussa T 
Yeti's Betty T 

Monster Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Reed Fee - 2008
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
beta photo

Description 

This route climbs a dihedral on the right side of a leaning, detached tower (Goddess of Virtue climbs the face of the tower). The crack you will be climbing is actually the space between this tower and the main face. The crack continues to get wider as you move up, to the point where you tunnel through the crack and reach the top of the tower.

Location 

Just right of Goddess of Virtue

Protection 

gear to 3" (optional 4" or 5" cam)


Comments on Monster Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Oct 21, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Tricky gear
By Reed Fee
From: White Salmon WA
Oct 25, 2014

Starts wide gets narrower until the very end where you tunnel behind a block.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 22, 2016

Gear is fine. I managed to lead it comfortably with a single rack from 0.3 to 3" with double in the 3". The .5 actually fits inside the widest part of the crack, on the right inside face, and takes the place of the 4" cam. Fun route.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Jul 4, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Lots of looseness and moss down low. At least one #4 is essential, and a #5 would be useful too. I wiggled in a few cams from #1-#3 with a smaller piece or two, but you're mostly shoulder-scumming between wider sections with helpful face holds.

I'd highly recommend traversing left to the anchor for Goddess of Virtue instead of romping up the wedged blocks at the top.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About