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Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet)
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Herford's Crack T 
Monolith Crack T 
Rocking Chair T 

Monolith Crack 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Abraham brothers 1905
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: Rob Davies UK on Nov 1, 2009

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The tight, slippery groove on P2 (photo by Phil As...

Description 

P1: 30' Tunnel under the Monolith.
P2: 30' 5.5 Climb a very polished and awkward groove to a stance beside the upper wide crack.
P3: 80' Easy if you can fit inside, impossible if you can't. Strip down, breathe out and sidle into the crack sideways for about 15' (try lying down and going in horizontally if all else fails) until it widens sufficiently to start chimneying upwards towards daylight. Then climb slabs to the top.
P3a: 80' 5.6 ("De Selincourt's variation"). If the crack is unattractive, swing out onto the R wall, then follow cracks and slabs to the top.
P3b: 80'. On the first ascent in 1905 the Abrahams climbed the crack on the outside! This is a hard offwidth problem that looks about 5.10.

Location 

At the low point of the centre of the cliff a huge block (the Monolith) has slumped down. The climb start on the R side of this. Can be done in a single pitch but much more fun when done in 3 pitches to observe the struggles close up.

Protection 

Small rack but protection is virtually irrelevant for the crux. Gear only gets in the way.


Photos of Monolith Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unsuccessfully trying to get inside the crack on P...
Unsuccessfully trying to get inside the crack on P...
Rock Climbing Photo: The easy bit - P1 (photo by Phil Ashton)
The easy bit - P1 (photo by Phil Ashton)

Comments on Monolith Crack Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jan 25, 2010

Did 3a once - couldn't get inside the chimney, and I was pretty slim in those days too.

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