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Unsorted Routes:

Mono Mercy 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch (??) Mid 2000s (??)
Page Views: 907
Submitted By: randy baum on Jul 10, 2012

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The potentially heartbreaking final roof pull. Thi...

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By the mid 2000s, darkness had besieged the chossy steeps of the river Willow. Like Gandalf the Grey in the Two Towers, Chris Hirsch, another gangly wizard, shone light into the abyss. Equipped only with a grigri and some Sobe iced tea, young Hirsch had the foresight -- nay, vision! -- to unearth (literally, this rig was dirty) -- another link-up at Willow, the Mono Mercy link.

Hence that fateful day, the skies at Willow have been bright (however the choss remains, the crowds are bigger, Hudson is still get the idea). And, in honor of this great achievement, no one has since -- to this author's knowledge -- had the gall to climb this visionary piece of climbing history. So, take up your staff (aka stick clips), grab some magic potions (aka a Sobe), and ride in and send.

Once attired in Gandalf robe and staff, begin on the Mono Route. At the roof that guards the chains for this route, move left and directly tackle the crux of Rejection and Mercy. Finish on Rejection and Mercy, clipping the lower chains (the top are unequalized, which is bad for your rope and for the higher anchor, which receives much more wear and tear than the lower).


Just to the right of the roof crack. Lower off the chains. If working the route, please use your own draws on the chains. This helps prolong the life of the fixed anchors.


Draws, including at least three long draws (one for the bolt below the chains on Mono; one for the first draw you clip on Rejection; and one for the bolt below the final roof on Rejection). Kneepad is optional if you use/find any kneepads. REMEMBER: KNEEBARING IS CHEATING. I ALSO DO NOT USE STICKY RUBBER OR DYNAMIC ROPES. WARREN HARDING IS MY HOMEBOY.

Photos of Mono Mercy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Good rests are key for tackling the steepest line ...
Good rests are key for tackling the steepest line ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nic entering the 1st redpoint pocket crux.
Nic entering the 1st redpoint pocket crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: topo.

Comments on Mono Mercy Add Comment
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By Ryan C.
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

A little more cleaning and this will be a great climb. Much for enjoyable than just mono route.
By KurtH
Jun 22, 2015
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I really can't fathom how folks climbed this earlier - this had to be the dirtiest climb I've ever been on, probably why I've never seen anyone on it...

That said, it's also just plain awesome, and after a lot work cleaning out all the pockets with a variety of brushes and a "blow-tube" and then pulling sand out of my ears, eyes and nose for the next 24 hours, well, it's now looking beautiful. This saw many more ascents this season now and just needed a little love.

I agree with Ryan - WAY better than just Mono Route. Long, steep and sustained to the chains, similar in style to High Road. Also skips the section of choss on Rejection Mercy.

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