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Vampire Rock
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A.C.E. S 
Blood Doll S 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Politician, The S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

Monkey's Uncle 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, 2000
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 292
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 7, 2002  with updates from Carl Schaefer

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Mike Keegan nearing the top of Monkey's Uncle.

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  • Description 

    Between The Bureau on the left and Transylverina on the right is a new line that takes off from the talus and heads toward two shallow roof systems. The line splits at the 30 foot point into left and right hand variations. Near the second roof, the right hand line splits again for an easy finish on the right that dodges the roof move. The interesting sequence through the roof moves left and then steps back over the roof just before the anchor. Good rock, nice pro, interesting climbing, and all rather benign since the climbing is mostly in the feet.


    Now 10 draws, a rope, and an anchor with two Mussy hooks.

    Photos of Monkey's Uncle Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: This small ceiling felt like the crux of Monkey's ...
    This small ceiling felt like the crux of Monkey's ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bart just above the 5th bolt.
    Bart just above the 5th bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Above the "arete" moves.
    Above the "arete" moves.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bart just above the 5th bolt on Monkey's Uncle.
    Bart just above the 5th bolt on Monkey's Uncle.

    Comments on Monkey's Uncle Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By stephen sangdahl
    Jul 11, 2002

    This route (the straight up variation) is called "Monkey's Uncle" 5.10d. It is located approx. 30' right of "Wanker" (behind tree and boulder). 3 variations exist; going left from 3rd bolt out small roof to thin holds on headwall is "A.C.E." 5.12a . The middle line up small corner and small roof is "Monkey's Uncle" 5.10d . The easy right hand finish is "Monkey's Sister" 5.10b/c . All end at same 3 bolt anchor. FAs of all three routes; Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, summer 2000.
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Sep 2, 2002

    We really enjoyed this climb, the multiple small roofs kept this interesting to the end. One question though, Stephen, how bad were the large flakes at the last roof before they were glued (the middle 10d version I guess from your description)? It seemed to us that if they were pulled out it might have made the climb an 11 or so (but who knows, right?). That was the only drawback for me, seeing all that glue. Just wanted to get your thoughts on why you wanted to save them.
    By Jeff Welch
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 15, 2008

    The climbing is good on these routes.
    However, I feel that a couple of the bolts could have been placed in better positions, especially for those who are climbing the Monkey's Sister variation at their limit.
    By Peter J. Beyel
    From: Glenwood Springs
    Jul 17, 2013
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Is this route chipped? Some of those edges feel too perfect.

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