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Monkey Shoulder 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Roy Suggett, Phyllis Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: May - October
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jun 22, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Blue=Monkey Shoulder Green=Scapular Arete Teal=For...


A mixed route and one of the longest routes in The Jungle. If the leader cleans the route, a 60 meter rope will just barely work; 70 meter rope is recommended. The crux is near the top of this fun forearm festival.

Start on the south side of the "monkey's shoulder" (face moves) then move through an easy chimney to a discontinuous crack that leads to a large block. Here is the first bolt prior to heading left back into the crack. This first clip is also the two bolt anchor for other climbs on the north side of the shoulder. After working your way through a loose crack and another bolt head up to a large bush where you then traverse left onto the glorious face and through 7 more bolts on ever-steepening, good rock.

You could also use the anchor on the block as the anchor for the first pitch, thus making this a two pitch route and eliminating the possible need for a longer rope.


At the end of the Distant Drum area and just around the corner and north of the down chute. Half way through this chute you can see the upper face of this route.


One 5, one 4, one 3, one 2, one 1, one .3, and one Metolius 00 along with 5 shoulder length runners, one four foot runner, and 5 quick draws get you to chains.

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By travis timm
From: Tropic, Utah
Jun 23, 2013

Kick ass rout. Fun, reativly easy, trad pitch followed by a super fun sport pitch on amazing rock with alot of big moves to great holds. Rout is long, sustained, and offers a little bit of everything!
By BSU_Zac
Jul 7, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This a really great route. The top portion is one of the best in the jungle. Once the thrushes fledge and the route gets cleaned this will be a jungle classic. I used a BD (4, 3, 2, 1), a Metolius 0, and an assortment of shoulder lengths and QDs for the 9 bolts. Great eye roy.
By Roy Suggett
Jun 25, 2014

The loose rock has been cleaned up making this even more enjoyable. There is a project being developed just on the other side (climbers right) of the shoulder. It will follow the arete right of "Monkey Shoulder" above the anchor of "Forbidden Coast Line", et. al. and then moves right onto the face and up to an already established anchor. The start of this new hard line will be "Monkey Sea Foam". If any body wants to help I could use it! The blunt arete of the second pitch looks/feels 12+ and the traverse and face seems 10+/11-.
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Jun 26, 2014

The bottom section is nothing to write home about but it's worth it to access the four star climbing on the upper section.

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