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The Monkey House
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Face Full of Bush S 
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Monkey Pause S 
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Monkey Shine S 
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Monkey Pause 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,468
Submitted By: Guy H. on Apr 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: The start, and crux, of the route. The first two ...

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This route is a 2 bolt variation to Monkey Shine (5.10d) (actually vice versa). Start in a overhanging dihedral and make some fun stem moves to the apex of the roof. Make a big move to a crimp on the left, back right to a sloper, and a good crimp marks the end of the hard part.

This is a good route, if you are looking for your first 5.12 redpoint. The hard part is short and near the ground, while the rest of the route is 5.10.



Photos of Monkey Pause Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: @ the anchor after the Monkey Puzzle variation....
@ the anchor after the Monkey Puzzle variation....

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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 6, 2003

Although the crux is low, the 5.10 roof is very fun. Huge holds and long moves keep your attention. The route after the roof is easier but I really enjoyed it. Don't psyche yourself out regarding the third clip, the climbing is easy. JM
By Andy Mauk
Dec 5, 2003

This route is the route to send your first 12 on lead. The first two clips are the crux and if you get scared there and can easliy reach them with a stick clip. After the crux grerat route!
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 5, 2003

The start to Monkey Pause is actually awkward and strange. There are a lot of 12a's in Shelf road with more straightforward moves that would make a more rewarding experience. Monkey Pause is certainly a good route, but like a lot of Alan Nelson's routes, this one needs a lot of power in the opening and the sequience through these moves is not all that easy to decipher. Pro is fine; you won't get hurt trying.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jun 4, 2011

This is NOT a variation to Monkey Shine. Rather Monkey Puzzle is a variation to this....
By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Mar 5, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Mark is correct. ^^^^
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Sep 2, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I thought this route was pretty fun with a unique crux. Note, if you blow the clip at bolt 3, you would need a very responsive belayer to keep you outta the dirt. The clip can be done fairly securely, but it's worth taking the time to find the best position to do so. The anchor is two open hooks without keepers. Nice line altogether!

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