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Monkey Pajamas 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Curtis Mai & Todd McCray
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: J. Thornton on Feb 12, 2017

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Description 

Consider a stick clip for first bolt. Do crux move or two getting past first bolt, stay in dihedral, clip second bolt (kind of a reachy clip), then climb to anchor. Pumpy short upper section overhangs quite a bit. Decent but not great anchor. Anchor does not have sport clips as of 2/2017.
PG rating is for potential 'wrecking ball' fall if from above bolt 2.

Location 

A shallow dihedral that transitions right into three stepped overhangs. Wall faces north, is under overhang, and was shaded all day in early February - might be shaded all day in summer?

Protection 

2 lead bolts w/hangers. Two anchor bolts - one is bolt thru chain, other is bolt w/hanger and one quick link.


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