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(s) Monkey Face
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Astro Monkey T 
Backbone, The S 
East Face T 
Just Do It S 
Monkey Off My Back S 
Monkey Space S 
North Face, The T 
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 
Northwest Passage (Free) T 
Pioneer Route T,S 
Rising Expectations T 
Spank the Monkey S 
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 
West Face (Aid) T 
West Face Variation T 
West Face Variation Direct T 

Monkey Off My Back 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde February 10, 2002
Page Views: 9,248
Submitted By: Laurel Fan on Jun 28, 2010

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Jon from Hood River savoring Monkey Off My Back, 5...

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Last pitch variation for Pioneer Route/West Face. Out of the mouth, start at the first bolt for Panic Point and trend right instead of straight up. This route ends at the summit rap anchor instead of the nose boulder.

Listed as 5.8 in Smith Rock Select and 5.9 in the new Watts book.


sport, 8 bolts

Photos of Monkey Off My Back Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kind of a crummy photo of a great route!
Kind of a crummy photo of a great route!
Rock Climbing Photo: Monkey Off My Back near sunset
Monkey Off My Back near sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Pioneer Route and Monkey Off My Back
Pioneer Route and Monkey Off My Back

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By Adam Volwiler
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The West Face variation linked up with this as a final pitch is the way to go. You don't have to deal with the goofy boulder at the top of the 5.7 since Monkey Off My Back ends at the top. The exposure was awesome, you feel like you are climbing on the side of some kind of floating boulder. This was the best 5.9 I had done in a long time. One 5.9ish move and the rest was pretty cake.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
May 10, 2013

Totally agree - you've probably grunted up the bolt ladder pitch to the mouth to get here, so don't cheat yourself on the best part by proceeding straight up the standard, discontinuous 5.7 line. Moving right onto this variation extends your time on the awesome exposed face, and it's really well bolted.
By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
May 27, 2014

Thought I was actually on the 5.7 pitch of the Pioneer for this line until I topped out and thought... "wait a second, wasn't there supposed to be another pitch?"

Truly amazing positioning and exposure, great holds and great movement. I can't imagine for a second that the standard Pioneer is in fact better. Do this variation if you've made it up the bolt ladder. Just do it.
By tsherry
From: Portland, OR
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Probably the best 5.9(ish) out there! When I clipped that first bolt at panic point I looked up at the next bolt on the 5.7, then looked right at the next bolt on this. So glad I chose to go right. Calling it 5.9 might be a little heavy. All the holds are there. Exposure is AMAZING. Definitely stop mid-route and take a moment to look down and soak it in.
By Nathan Collins
From: Portland, OR
May 24, 2017

Similar to Adam Volwiler, West Face Variation Direct -> Pioneer bolt ladder -> this route is a great easy way to the top, much better than the standard Pioneer Route. It's not listed here on MP, but the Watts book also has a 5.9 mixed route called King Kong that starts right of West Face Variation and will get you to Bohn Street.

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