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Monkey Mayhem 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 2005
Page Views: 4,130
Submitted By: James Ging on Oct 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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Allie, on her fist climb ever, wondering why peopl...


Clean, easy climbing, good warmup or first lead. Nice and shaded, with only afternoon sun. Not quite vertical with the classic malibu pockets.


Route starts across from Guerrilla Drilla on the ledge. Obvious first bolt and less than vertical wall mark the spot.


5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. As the route starts on a ledge, you really don't want to fall before the first bolt.

Photos of Monkey Mayhem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Excellent route for a first outdoor lead climb.
Excellent route for a first outdoor lead climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: The old worn out anchors. Don't worry. These are s...
BETA PHOTO: The old worn out anchors. Don't worry. These are s...
Rock Climbing Photo: First climb, ever, for this young lady.
First climb, ever, for this young lady.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gerry doing an easy lead up Monkey Mayhem.
Gerry doing an easy lead up Monkey Mayhem.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 24, 2016
By Levy
From: Reseda, CA
Nov 25, 2009
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

This is the easiest lead at Malibu Creek S.P. It is only about 5.3. Fine for beginners & new leaders, it can easily be climbed in regular shoes.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Dec 3, 2009

Putting new climbers on a route this chossy is just plain mean for the belayer. I'd wear football pads and a full helmet if I were you.
By John Moore
May 2, 2011

Where is this route? Any photos anywhere? I'm looking for an easy first lead route and this sounds pretty good. I know where Chopping Block is. Where is this route from Chopping Block? Thanks... John
By Clay Zamperini
From: Tarzana, CA
May 6, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

John, I don't know where it is relative to chopping block (only climbed malibu once, and didn't have a guidebook), but if you're in the Stumbling Blocks area, head east past all the 5.10/5.11 climbs (back towards the trail) and there's a big slabby wall that borders the creek. You belay from a cliffside area with a big oak tree growing out of it. Can't miss it.

Definitely a good first lead, really easy, but since it's kind of exposed you really don't want to miss the first bolt and tumble off the cliff (you're belaying 20-30 feet above the creek floor).

Hope this helps.
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

It may have been chossy at one time, but has cleaned up nicely. A good beginner lead.
By Brent Kelly
Dec 30, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

The route is on your left as you scramble up into the pseduo-canyon. Scramble up an exposed (30 ft tumble if you slip) mini-ledge to the first bolt. The route starts directly up from the right edge gulley of the belay ledge.

Pretty easy and decently fun BUT you definitely want to be attentive on this route.

I knocked off two baseball sized pieces of choss on a casual lead, narrowly missing my belayer. One actually hit her foot. Be attentive.
By Brent Kelly
Dec 30, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Also, catches afternoon sun about halfway up.

Looked like a nice ledge above the chains. Would be fun to belay from above and have lunch. Great view.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 22, 2013

Agree with Levy regarding the suitability of approach shoes for leading "Monkey Mayhem," but the rating is closer to 5.5
By atp
From: Clairemont Mesa, CA
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Enjoyable climb. Had a new-to-climbing friend do their first lead on this route, it has good clipping stances and a nice view at the top.
By Mike N.
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 27, 2014

I climbed this on 10/24/2014, and the anchor biners at the top look to be worn about halfway through. If you're going to top rope on this, probably best to use your own anchor draws.
By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
May 6, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

ANCHOR UPDATE: Those very worn out anchor biners are still there but now there are massive gated hooks on the ends of the chains. Very easy but interesting climb. Found one loose fist sized rock about two thirds of the way up but couldn't dislodge it. Also definitely don't miss the first bolt or you'll probably fall off the ledge another 20 feet down, but it's extremely easy climbing. The top gives one of the best views as it has the highest elevation.
By Christian B
From: West Hills, California
Nov 24, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The down climb was a little sketch after I solo'd to the top, but wasn't hard. Easy route that has nice views. Just be smart when it comes to picking foot and hand holds.

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