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Monkey in the Forest 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: rob bauer on Oct 1, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Phil after Monkey-ing around.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is not my route, but since I just did at least half of it, I thought I'd put it in the database. Most of us have walked past this and thought "it looks good, we'll do it on the way down."

A mix of gear gets you to the diagonal hand to thin fingers crux above the pod. Grunt through to a so-so jam and then up to where the angle kicks back. Protect with #1 Camalots to the tree (where I rapped). The crack continues up and right toward the arete, but the CP beta photo shows it just going up the headwall. Others will have to comment whether there are anchors on top and which is the best way.

Location 

This route is #1 on the CP beta photo. The route is on the lower buttress in front of the 'Pinnacle proper; you have to walk around this to enter the alcove to start Center Route. There are two obvious cracks you'll see on this lower wall, Monkey is on the left.

Protection 

All trad: several small cams to #2 Camalot plus some stoppers. (I bailed off the tree ~75 feet; unsure whether there are anchors at top. Only had 1 rope.)


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By ejesse Jesse
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 13, 2015

There are two bolted anchors at the top of the formation. You can use a single rope to rap right to the base of Center Route or Wunsch's Dihedral.

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