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Monkey Gone to Heaven 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: Andy Petefish
Page Views: 439
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Dec 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Great rock! Hard moves.

Description 

This climbs a great chunk of stone with very technical moves up a steepening face. The first crux may be getting to the first bolt! 25' of 5.10+ will get you onto a small ledge and a bolt. From here, the steep wall throws a variety of devious moves with only a few rests. There is a show stopper at about halfway up. At the top, exit with a mantle to a ledge and a old angle iron bolt. From here, traverse directly left to a two bolt anchor.

Location 

This is on the long apron to the right of the large boulder leaning against the wall near the top of the trail. Start to the left of a shiny smooth slab and go up a shallow dihedral.

Protection 

QDs.


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By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Dec 19, 2013

Though the guidebook gives this a rating of 12+, both my partner and I think that it warrants a harder grade. The guidebook also states it has a single bolt anchor, but there are actually two. You be the judge! To take the death out of getting to the first bolt, climb Burnt Beautician and clip the first bolt on the rappel.
By that emilio
Apr 28, 2017

Found a nice access to this route on the left of the white X and added 3 bolts so you don't have to die getting to the first bolt. It could be something around 13b. Beautiful and solid line.

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