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Rock Springs Buttress
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Monkey Flower 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Hargis, Bill Dyer 2001
Season: Morning shade
Page Views: 2,888
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jun 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Amanda Moyer belaying Ken Jern on Monkeyflower. Th...


Warning: a 70m rope required to rap or toprope off the anchors!!

This is a popular route, both because of its grade and the fact that it is the first moderate route reached on the approach trail. The climbing is a times awkward, and the bolts somewhat out-of-reach, but the position and length of the pitch make the climb worthwhile in the end. The rock is still a little loose, so take care and wear a helmet.

Beginning at the bottom of a huge left facing corner, this route climbs up and left and heads directly up the huge headwall above the roof. The climbing isn't super difficult, but the unpredictable nature of the holds, awkward moves, and length of the route slowly build to a nice pump.


The approach trail hits the cliff right at this route. It begins at the bottom of a huge, left facing corner with undesirable looking rock. Begin up this corner to reach the first bolt to the left, then start trending up and left to the next bolts.


Bolts - approximately 10. Chain anchor. This climb is a little sporty a times, particularly clipping the first bolt.

Photos of Monkey Flower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway up Monkey Flower.  Unknown climber.
Halfway up Monkey Flower. Unknown climber.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting Monkey Flower
Starting Monkey Flower
Rock Climbing Photo: The big view of Monkey Flower.  Note the hang glid...
The big view of Monkey Flower. Note the hang glid...

Comments on Monkey Flower Add Comment
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By bill dyer
Nov 24, 2008

F.A.Pitch#one: Doug Coombs/Bill Dyer
F.A.Pitch#two: Tom Hargis/Bill Dyer
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Intimidating traverse to start to thin face climbing - very sequency with some of the best holds difficult to pick out on initial look. No one move is harder than 5.10a, but felt very sustained. A tad run-out. Hit up Birthday Suit further down the Buttress for a more cruiser 5.10a. I've done easier 10b/c than this. None of the above takes away from the high quality.

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