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Monkey Fever 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 270'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Marc Tarnosky, Marta Reece, 7/12/2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 49
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Jul 24, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1. Photo Marc Tarnosky.

Description 

This route takes a full advantage of the right-facing corner in the middle of the right half of the Zoonotic wall. It shares the top half of it with Monkeypox.

Pitch 1 (100 ft) goes up a groove on the right side of the wall, switches to a parallel groove just to the left of it, continues up over couple of steep bulges, and ends on a wide ledge just left of the tree.

Pitch 2 (100 ft) starts at the left end of the ledge and goes up the prominent right-facing corner. A small alcove above the top of the corner provides shaded belay.

Pitch 3 (70 ft) goes right and then up over a slab, the angle of which has moderated by now. Heading directly for the rap station on the large, live tree is probably best. Protection is in pockets opening along the seems.

Pitches 2 and 3 can probably be combined, but we have climbed this route in the summer for its shade, which would have to be sacrificed. There would also probably be some rope drag from the change in direction.

Location 

The route goes up first the right side, then the left side, of the slab left of Short Line.

It takes two rappels to get down, the first of which is a two-rope rappel. 60m ropes are okay. Alternatively one may do an exposed scramble across the top of the main gully dividing Zoonotic and scramble from there into Citadel Canyon.

Protection 

Standard rack is sufficient. There are rap slings on trees at the destination ledges, but these are not in locations suitable for belay anchors.


Photos of Monkey Fever Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2. Photo Marc Tarnosky.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2. Photo Marc Tarnosky.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 detail. Photo Marc Tarnosky.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 detail. Photo Marc Tarnosky.
Rock Climbing Photo: Right side of Zoonotic. Photo Marc Tarnosky.
BETA PHOTO: Right side of Zoonotic. Photo Marc Tarnosky.

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