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Monkey Buttress

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Monkey Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 22.2826, 114.19737 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 890
Administrators: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Sullens on Oct 7, 2013
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Huge Spiders at monkey buttress in June

Description 

A short crag (10-15 meters at most) in an easily accessible location. Vertical to slightly off vertical climbing on thin edges and pockets. The rock is volcanic but of a slightly different character than the other volcanic locations in Hong Kong.

A number of new routes were recently developed on the left side of the crag, most of which are at a lower grade than the previous routes. Very easy access and a mix of grades will make this a popular area. Link to a .pdf guide for the area:

pdf download for Monkey Buttress

Getting There 

Green minibus 25 from Causeway Bay, or taxi from Tin Hau MTR. Go to the end of Braemar Hill Road. From the end of the road, take the steps down the drainage and cross a small stream to a dirt path. As you walk uphill on orange color dirt, look for a concrete slab in the middle of the trail. At this point look turn right. Follow the trail with a fixed handline or two to the crag.

Rock Climbing Photo: Start of approach
Start of approach




Rock Climbing Photo: Turn right here on trail
Turn right here on trail

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Monkey Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Katie going back to school

Back to School 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Asia : China : ... : Monkey Buttress
The best line on the crag. Scramble up to the small ledge at the base of the crag. Make thin moves up the wall to gain the base of a hanging flake. Move left from this to a second flake (slightly hollow so be gentle). From the top of the flake use a good pocket and very thin flake (be very gentle with this one) to make a big move right to a series of horizontal pockets with a line of bolts (of unknown origin) beneath them. Finish up the groove above these....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Monkey Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Money Buttress
Money Buttress

Comments on Monkey Buttress Add Comment
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By Andrew Riley
From: Yangon, Myanmar
Jul 5, 2015
First of all take the first right turn you see when you're heading up the trail. When we were there, there were climbing ropes tied along the trail. This takes you to the base of the crag. It shouldn't be much more than a 5 minute approach. Secondly, we went to Monkey Buttress on a trip to HK in June/July. During this time of year there are a bunch of HUGE spiders (as big as your face) that make webs across the trail. I'm not sure if they're poisonous, but just an FYI. Also take a lot of mosquito spray and also mosquito coils. There are a bunch of relentless mosquitos at this crag. Thirdly, if it's the summer don't go to the crag until about 1:00. Before this in the summer it's pretty much unclimbable. The locals that we met told us that the local community calls the crag "Hell." Enjoy.

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