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Monkey Business T 
Rheomorphism T 
Too Big To Fail T 

Monkey Business 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: T. Bubb & C. Parks, 7/2/13
Season: Gets early am shade.
Page Views: 48
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 3, 2013

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This is a good route that was, surprisingly, undone, or at least undocumented when we did it.

Start off on a small bulge in the wall just right of Rheomorphism, and gain a jam crack after 2 meters, as for 'Too Big To Fail'. As this hits a horizontal, place a 0.75" cam (yellow Alien) in the horizontal, and step out and right to a second crack near the arete, which does not run to the ground. Jam that crack to the summit of the rock with some interesting sidepulls thrown in. At the summit, scamper under a massive and precariously perched boulder on the summit and head back to the belay, 7 meters away, as for Rheomorphism (large stoppers and a #3 Camalot).


This is the right-most of 3 neighboring cracks on the lower right side of the crag, facing the road.


A run of cams from 0.75" to 3.5" for the lead plus a few large stoppers and a large cam for the belay. An extra red Camalot could be useful.

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