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SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)
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Maw, The T 
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Psychocandy T 
Right Between the Eyes T 
Roast Leg of Chair T 
Roofing Company T 
White Line Fever T 

Monkey Business 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1974
Page Views: 1,627
Submitted By: Bo Johnston on Feb 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Susan slugging in some pro before heading out the ...


This exciting route is the rightmost of two prominent right facing roofs on the right side of Little Hunk's southwest end. At first glance, it would seem harder than its rating but after a closer look you'll see edges for your feet and an edge for crimping through the mid-roof crux. After pulling the roof a boulder is back behind the climb with a sling on it and a couple of rap rings. Not the best anchor but it works and drops you right back to the start of the route.


Just right of Roofing Company.


This roof crack is really just one size throughout at a #3 to #4 camalot. I didn't have the fancier new camalots but a #3.5 would be perfect. A red alien will protect the crux if you can set it before committing to the move.

Photos of Monkey Business Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Monkey Business (5.8), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Monkey Business (5.8), Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: John Dubrawski tops out on Roofing Company - cragc...
BETA PHOTO: John Dubrawski tops out on Roofing Company - cragc...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from Little Hunk/Monkey Business
BETA PHOTO: View from Little Hunk/Monkey Business

Comments on Monkey Business Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 16, 2007

I used two peices - 3.5 camalot and a 3.0 further to the left before turning the lip. The 3.5 was perfect but a 4.0 would work well too. After the lip the route eases through some large blocks and no pro is really needed other than for the anchor.

Speaking of anchor, I set one on a large flat shelf just up from the blocks. When it came to decending there are a few choices.

1) - scramble up and behind the Monkey Business to the top of a bolted route (wage & price ceiling?) to the right which has chain anchors.

2) - drape your rope around a large/fat horn like feature and rap off the west side over the large roof.

By Russ Walling
Feb 16, 2007

Tip: Use your feet! A power undercling is not needed.... nice route!
By Darren D.
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A cool fist crack roof. The crux seemed to be getting down. I down climbed from the middle of the route that susan is referring to in her #1 recommendation.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 17, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Insanely fun with deep fist jams and thoughtful footwork. Looks way harder than it is.

After topping out the roof on Monkey Business and belaying up your follower, wander over to the far right side of the ledge and hop aboard the 2nd bolt of The Maw. Makes for a diverse 2-pitch outing I like to call Monkey's Maw.
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 16, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Also known, long ago, as the "Wage Ceiling".

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