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Monkey Business 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,469
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Nov 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Go left young man! Either right there, or a few f...


Easy start up broken crack system right of chimney. Climb 15 feet on good pro. Traverse left around corner toward chimney, onto easy face climbing. Climb up to one bolt protecting thinner moves near the top. Two chain anchor on top.


Bring small to medium cams, nuts, quickdraws and extensions for chain anchor.

Photos of Monkey Business Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch of monkey business. scramble up to the w...
BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch of monkey business. scramble up to the w...

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By bw1
Oct 5, 2003

good intro for a trad learner. quality exposure and a fun little chimney. enjoy.
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 20, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun little climb. I understand that there are two more pitches above (I haven't climbed them). I think the climb is probably more like 5.6.
By Vincent Greene
Jan 1, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There are three pitches. Pitch 1 - Look for one 3/8 bolt with Fixe hanger on the first pitch. Pitch 2 - Up and to the right of the chains. Climb real easy stuff to a large vertical crack (a #4 camalot works here as well as plenty of smaller stuff in a horizontal) use a 4 foot runner unless you like rope drag. Step around a big overhanging block onto the face (easy but exposed) and proceed to top of block to establish a solid gear anchor. Ptich 3 - Proceed up the face to a block with a single bolt and up to the chains. Rappel straight down from the chains to a flat area, then walk along on rappel and down to the chains at the top of the first pitch. Tie a knot in the end - a sixty meter rope just reaches if you swing the rope around so it goes straight down. Rap to the bottom along the first pitch. This is a great route for a new trad leader to learn about multipitch.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 28, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

First pitch is worth it alone, but the second and third are highly recommended. I used a #2 Camalot for the airy second pitch move, which is good news if you don't own a #4! Rapping into the tree is part of the fun.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 25, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Bomber gear, a little run out between your last piece and the bolt. I agree that the first pitch is a good route for a new trad leader. The second and third pitch are very good as well, however the second pitch does deserve a pg13 as there are several moves that, if blown, leave you with a busted ankle on a ledge 15 feet below. The second pitch can be made safer if you move the belay up past the ledge...there is enough gear for a solid trad anchor. A couple small-medium sized tricams are useful on the second pitch as well for a dirty horizontal crack.
By Johnny Ice
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 30, 2011

Pretty neat climb. Its short and easy but fun. I climbed it once in the snow with steel toed boots on. Good place to take people who want a taste of climbing
By Micah Kurtz
From: Denver, Co
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This was my 8th trad lead and I found the traverse to be a little stressful. However, I'm not a very good slab climber. I think it is worth doing though.

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