REI Community
Delicacy Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bearded Clam S 
Canyon Caviar S 
Chewy and Gooey S 
Eat'em and Smile S 
Fine China S 
Fur Burger S 
Monkey Brain Stew S 
Pearl Necklace S 
Speck S 
Steak Scar Scar S 
Truffle Shuffle S 

Monkey Brain Stew 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chef Cronin
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall. Rarely sees sun.
Page Views: 565
Submitted By: BBQ on Jun 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Good stuff, Maynard!

A Sick, Twisted, Delectably-Diabolical, Limestone Treat! 

All killer, no filler! This route is stoopid steep with huge, honkin' holds! Atypical for Spearfish Canyon and gives a small taste of what you would encounter at Victoria Canyon.


Use your abs! Lose your love-handles! Lose your lunch! This is the 12a that all 12a climbers have been training for!


Located on a blonde prow just to the right of a flake-filled crack. 5th route from the left-hand side of The Delicacy Wall.


Six bolts and open anchors. Stick clipping the third bolt is possible. (Probably not needed.) This practice is recommended for those who are new to Spearfish Canyon 5.12 climbing. Stick clipping the third bolt is nice because it allows you to sail through a bottom crux without having to worry about fumbling that clip.

Comments on Monkey Brain Stew Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mikel Cronin
Jun 11, 2013

Why does the 3rd need to be stick clipped? I recall it being a little stressful to clip but reasonable.
Jun 12, 2013

You don't need to stick clip the third bolt if you are already awesome. But it's not a bad idea to do so if your not too accomplished at 5.12 climbing yet or if you've never done the route before.
By Mikel Cronin
Jun 13, 2013

I'm all for stick clipping for safety but when your clipping up half the route that's a little extreme. Have a good belayer and don't fumble the clip. I don't know one person, awesome or not who has decked from there.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About