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The Monkey House
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Face Full of Bush S 
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Monkey Puzzle S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 
Monkey Shine S 
New Pollution, The S 
Psycho Hose Beast S 
Punishment For Shoplifting S 
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Monkey Bars 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Richard M. Wright, Nevada Montagu, 1999. FFA: Nevada M.
Page Views: 1,897
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 21, 2001

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Description 

Monkey Bars runs up the huge block before the cut through The Monkey House that divides The Monkey House proper from the block with The Sprawl on it (The Death Block). The climbing starts in the narrow wash before the huge chockstone that you stand on to start The Sprawl. There are four new routes in this sector between The Sprawl on the left and Monkey Puzzle on the right. Monkey Bars is the middle of the three roof routes. The climbing runs up to a multi-tiered roof system above on largely 5.9 climbing. An overhead clip before the roof can be had off a fine ledge with a no-hands rest. Power up the first roof for a 5.12a -5.12b crux that is very height dependent. Several 5.11c power moves through the overlaps leads to a final 5.11d crux at the last lip of the roof system . Pull the last roof and get established on your feet for a chill, two more tenuous clips with in-obvious hands gains the anchor. Two stars for the continuity, exposure, and great power moves.

Protection 

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 10-12 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 m rope is a good idea, and the route has not been checked with a 50 m rope, so heads up on the descent.


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By Lee Landkamer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 31, 2003

Great route but there is a problem. As of 20-July-03 a large block several clips above the crux that forms a key hold has become dangerously loose. It desperately needs to be epoxyed but I do not have the expertise to do the job. It would be very ugly if that thing fell off.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jul 28, 2008

Attempted this one yesterday, and was shut down at the beginning of the roof. If the correct beta is to set a left fist-jam in the crack under neath where the vertical meets the horizontal, reach around past the lip to a small "mail slot" with the right hand in a gaston position, match, buump right to a slot next to the bolt, then bump again to the obvious jug....I think there may have been a hold along, or near the lip that has broken off. Or maybe I was just a pansy, and unable/unwilling to pull through on what was clearly a harder sequence than the consensus. Whatever, the route up to the roof is worth doing, even if you don't pull the roof. Young Doug.
By Nick Gibson
Aug 15, 2013

Great route. Super fun overhang, my favorite style of climbing. I am 6'1", and I think this made the crux considerably easier than it would have been if I was a bit shorter. Very fun!
By Tom Lauren
From: Longmont, CO
Nov 10, 2014

Climbed this route yesterday. I didn't notice any loose holds. Also, I wasn't aware of any holds having broken off at the start of the steep, difficult climbing. I am 6'2" and felt that the grade of the route was somewhere around 5.12a. I think that getting established into the steep section could be more difficult for a shorter person.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I thought this route was well worth doing...would be harder if you're short, but I am surprised that this is 12a. I thought maybe soft 11d. It's a one move wonder with mainly 5.10 climbing for the rest of the climb. One mantel move that might be in the 11a region and one crux move that involves more precision than strength. Thunderclings anyone! Cool crux though and cool climb! :)
By nate post
From: Silverthorne
Oct 16, 2016

I came across a fairly large, loose block just before establishing myself under the roof section. Maybe it's locked in there, but it would suck if it pulled out. I was fully hanging off it. I marked it. Just a heads up. Roof section was super fun and solid.
By Mac Praetorius
From: boulder, co
Mar 9, 2017

In the spirit of safety, I'll leave this here. That block Nate marked with an x is about to go. Today I gave it the knock test, and it sounded solid. So I gave it a tug to pull through that section, and it felt like it started to give. I think it could go with a couple more tugs, or it might hold.
By ScoJo
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2017

Someone knocked off a watermelon-sized block off of this while I was on Face Full of Bush (earlier this spring). It landed a few feet away from my belayer. Scary stuff!

Be careful while climbing this thing, and belayers should also consider where they stand while belaying.

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