|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Bob Robertson & Dave Henritze, early '80s|
|Submitted By:||tharlow harlow on May 31, 2007|
|2016 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Monkey and the Engineer||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By phil broscovak
Jun 16, 2007
|F.A. Bob Robertson & Dave Henritze, early '80's.|
By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|I thought the route looked less than inspiring from the ground...but p1 and p4 are quite fun. P4 protects well despite its appearance.|
Oct 3, 2016
Here's a little more detail on location and pitches. The start is about about 15 feet left of Maiden Voyage.
P1. Locate a short, left-angling seam/crack and climb that for about 20-30 feet. Cut right before the big corner starts until you are basically above the start of Maiden Voyage. Continue up the crack for 15 feet, and then angle left back towards the apex of the .11 variation roof on an easy traverse. Take an extremely thin flake up and left to join the .11 variation above the roof, step left, and belay.
P2. Move up a few feet from the belay and then directly left on a decent flake (fixed stopper) to the corner. Turn the corner and follow the easy crack up to a dirty big ledge (20-30 feet). Step right into a dirty (and if it rained recently, muddy and mossy) crack and climb that through (or around) the bush at the top to another big ledge. Move up and slightly right to the base of the crux pitch (the obvious weakness left of black streaks).
P3. Climb the crux pitch more or less straight up to an alcove and belay (125 feet?).
P4. Continue straight up to an easy offwidth above and the walkoff ledge. Pro is hard for an anchor here, I slung a large boulder on climber's left.