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Monitor and Merrimac Buttes

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Hollis Route T 
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain T 
Hypothetical Route T 
Keel Hauling T 
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross T 
Monitor Butte, The Plunge T 
Without A Net T 

Monitor and Merrimac Buttes Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 4,639
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Stacy Bender on Mar 22, 2002
Forecast:
Tonight

60°
Thursday

83° | 57°
Friday

71° | 47°
Saturday

66° | 44°
Sunday

63° | 42°
Monday

63° | 42°
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Looking at the Monitor from the base of the Merrim...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

These are two impressive formations that can't be missed as you drive about 3 miles southwest into Tusher Canyon. They are a softer sandstone; easy on your hands, but can crumble with pressure. Most climbs are hard trad mixed with aid. Be prepared to leave webbing since any you find is most likely years old. This area is not climbed in much, and the isolation is a big part of the fun. Any climb on these rocks takes big balls since the softness of the rock makes even good looking gear placements questionable.

Getting There 

The directions for the Tusher Canyon area will get you in view of these formation. After that, you can continue to try following the directions or, as I did, just follow any 4x4 road heading towards them. A little trial and error is just as quick as stopping at every crossing or Y to reread the directions. If you are in a jeep, and you should be, it's fun just getting there anyway. Just don't be a jerk by taking shortcuts off the existing roads. Allow yourself a full day to get in, do a climb or two and get out.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.0 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Monitor and Merrimac Buttes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Monitor and Merrimac Buttes:
Monitor Butte, The Plunge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 175'   
Without A Net   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X     Trad   
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Monitor and Merrimac Buttes

Featured Route For Monitor and Merrimac Buttes
Rock Climbing Photo: John Benson looking it over prior to the start. Ph...

Without A Net 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Utah : Moab Area : ... : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes
This climb is an experience you won't forget. For the most part, this might as well be a solo climb for the lead climber. Protection is nearly non-existant, especially on the 2nd pitch. We did this route in 3 pitches, and on the 3rd pitch, we used a large flake about 30 feet into the chimney to place #4 & 5 friends. The rock is very soft though, and these cams may not have held if we had actually taken a fall. The solitude of this area along with the depth we progressed into this ch...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Monitor and Merrimac Buttes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Monitor Butte from between the two.
Monitor Butte from between the two.
Rock Climbing Photo: Monitor and Merrimac
Monitor and Merrimac
Rock Climbing Photo: A giant pothole on the summit of Monitor Butte... ...
A giant pothole on the summit of Monitor Butte... ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken 3/13/02 two or three miles east of the Butte...
BETA PHOTO: Taken 3/13/02 two or three miles east of the Butte...

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