REI Community
Mushroom Massif
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cold Water Drama T 
Easy Street T,S 
Freewheelin' T,S 
Godspeed T,S 
Granitude T,S 
Lichen Psilocybin T,S 
Locked and Loaded T 
Mongoose T,S 
Mushroom, The S 
Quartz Dancer T 
Unknown T 

Mongoose 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Matt Juth, Dave Loring
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Apr 14, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
I'm standing on the ledge just below the belay. No...

Description 

This route is on the formation to the east of Mushroom Massif (Afungusamongus). It is a few hundred feet from Stone Knives and separated from Mushroom by a Monastery-like chasm. It climbs past four bolts to reach the prominent dihedral crack and then face climbs up easy terrain to the top of the formation. It took 170 feet of rope to climb and set up the belay. There are a couple good steep face climbs to Mongoose's right which will be bolted and cleaned soon.

The climb begins at a small tree at the entrance to the gully. Climb up flakes (directly behind the tree)to reach a sloping ledge, put in a piece with a long runner under the large flake to the right, step up and right to gain the arete and first bolt. Climb past the first three bolts (crux), step right, and climb past the last bolt to the base of the dihedral.

The dihedral is pretty easy (maybe a move of 5.6 or 5.7 in there), and continues for 50 or 60 feet. At the midpoint of the dihedral, there is a section where the rope will jam in the crack (hence the route name). We jammed a few small pebbles in there (to keep this from happening to others), but they won't stay in there for ever. A well placed nut will eliminate the problem. Be aware!

At the end of the dihedral, large features to the left lead up easy runout climbing to a large ledge. Climb 10 feet above the ledge and set up the belay. A #1 Camalot and 2 Camalot, and a few large nuts can be placed. Walk off to the top off the gully and descend.

The route contains a lot of lichen. It would not get a star anywhere but the SSV.

Protection 

4 bolts and a standard rack. Save a few medium pieces for the belay.


Comments on Mongoose Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 19, 2004

Overall, the climbing is fun and it is a good line. The lichen just makes the moves more nervy than they have to be, and detracts from the quality. The rock is solid on the face sections, there is just some loose stuff in the crack that you wouldn't use for holds, but still need to be aware of. Also look for exfoliating potato chips while climbing the crack section.

Watch rope drag at the start and at the top. Bring long slings.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About