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Mongo Fury 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Barry Rugo and Arturo??
Season: Winter, Spring, Summer, and Fall - all you have to do is call...
Page Views: 886
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Sep 14, 2009

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Placing gear on the lead below the crux on Mongo F...


Sweet and very fun 30 feet of climbing positive but intense vertical to overhanging arete (and crack just right of arete) up into rest and big horizontals then final steep exit crack and edges. Crux is at mid height moving off positive horizontal hand match to pull on small side pull above to get into large jugs/ledges and protruding flake rest.


Next buttress back from and right of the "No Sweat" overhang route which is the first major climbable rock formation one comes to when walking up CCC trail from the East Bluff car park.


Good to excellent small to medium wires and cams. There is a good placement about every 3 feet on this making it quite safe to lead. It is just very strenuous to place the gear needed at crux because it's above your head and above the nice positive horizontal hand match.

Photos of Mongo Fury Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike, in motion
Mike, in motion
Rock Climbing Photo: Dmitriy pulling the crux move of Mongo Fury on lea...
Dmitriy pulling the crux move of Mongo Fury on lea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mongo Fury takes the arete and crack just left of ...
BETA PHOTO: Mongo Fury takes the arete and crack just left of ...

Comments on Mongo Fury Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Sep 14, 2009

I'm so glad you added this Burt. It's a really great lead that is often overlooked.
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Sep 14, 2009

Thanks Jay. I will post a few pictures as well soon. It is a very good lead I agree. The rock is really nice. Very good, hard, and satisfying climbing I think. I never knew this thing existed until you mentioned it a while back. I have been looking up at it ever since while walking by. I really like the 5.7/5.8ish thing around the corner to the left too. It is not named in the guidebook other then a number but it is well worth an onsight lead attempt I think.. Short as well but super fun and has nice textured rock plus just enough good gear placements.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 2, 2009

yo,me thinks the first lead of MONGO FURY was by Barry Rugo and Arturo ...a very long time ago.
By Tradiban
Aug 20, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I didn't see the pro in the crux and was forced to run this out to the rest. The rest is very good and sporty with a damn big jug to hang on. The lower pro was hard to place, what looks like a good nut could turn out poor, best to place a micro cam just above it to back it up.
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Aug 20, 2011

You are right on Nick. That nut placement in the crack notch thing low down is not a very deep placement and could be a potential blow-out placement if fallen on hard (quite possible because not much rope out) and I have on every occasion backed it up with a blue power cam placement just above. The crux pro you missed is a very similar placement to one just mentioned but involves an even smaller wired nut so the possibility of blowing this placement is even greater....
Adding the PG gear rating is a good idea now that I think more about it...
By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Jun 6, 2016

What a great route! Why did I wait so long to get on this?

Classic Devils Lake in so many ways: packs a lot of thought into a short space, deciphering which of the edges above you are flat and which are slopers is key, and the actual line is not the most visible line. Amazingly varied, devious, and sustained.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Feb 18, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R

Great little route! High potential for a ground fall if you were to fall going to the horizontal crack. Super fun regardless!

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