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Sector Calcaneus
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Money Can't Buy Me Love 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Thorsten Bauer, April '06
Page Views: 718
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Jan 13, 2010

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Pier Luigi, getting to the tuffa on Money Can't Bu...

Description 

Another area classic and best of the grade.

Climbs up an interesting bit of vertical wall with some funky moves over and up a small corner. The crux is the huge tuffa/stalactite hanging in the middle of the route and involves some chimney/scumming maneuvers that might allude some Sportos. Long, sustained, and interesting; a must do.

Location 

On the right wall of the huge corner that makes up Sector Calcaneus. The left line of bolts, head right at the split just below the second (huge) tuffa.

Protection 

A dozen draws or so.


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By Peter Winter
Dec 1, 2016

If you run out of bolts to clip, the anchor is hidden down and left of the big tufa. Good route but I don't like using chord slung through tufas as pro (only one though).