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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Dangle/ Rex Mammel, 1990
Page Views: 2,215
Submitted By: Rex Mammel on Mar 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Derek Lawrence giving it a go.


This is the classic, crimping, hard 11.


Homemade hangers and cold shuts.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Looks hard to me.
Looks hard to me.
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By Joe Collins
Mar 22, 2004

One of Shelf's best. The moves getting established on the face are pretty desperate.
By Andrew Iltis
From: Denver, CO
Jun 12, 2007

Great rests bolt to bolt. A long wingspan helps in upper pocket section.
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Apr 14, 2008

Anybody have ANY beta on getting established on the face??? Tried yesterday but could not figure it out....
By BrendanP Moran
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Try going left after the bush instead of right.
By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Feb 14, 2013

Excellent route! Great rest?? Pretty desperate middle crux on a very thin crimp leads to wonderful, yet sustained, climbing up top.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jan 20, 2014

If you can pull the move on this "11d", the crux of ejection seat will feel like a piece of cake.
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jan 20, 2015

First ascent was in 1990. Not sure where the sandbag, published grade originates, but it's a good bit harder than 11d.
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Apr 27, 2015

Hardware upgraded 4-25-15. Four new 1/2" stainless lead bolts plus anchors (shared with Motif). Thanks to ASCA for the hardware!
From: Nederland, CO
Jan 27, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The crux over the bulge feels like V4-BV5, depending on your reach and footwork. Fierce line with beautiful throws to pockets following the crux. Harder than any other 5.11 I've done. The only 5.11 I have not on-sighted at Shelf as well. I thought Gym Arete was easier. Forget the numbers, and have fun trying hard on this classic!

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