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Broken Tooth
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Biggie Smiles T 
Blue Sky Mining T 
Broken Tooth T 
Brown Baby Teeth T 
Chemotherapy T 
Dental Floss Tycoon T 
Dentist Chair T 
Dynamic Dentistry T 
Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
Inflictor T 
Insoluble T 
Low Fang S 
Midnight Oil T 
Mondo T 
Mushrooms With Hefner T 
Novacaine T 
Numbing the Wild T 
Phantom Pinnacle T 
Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 3,268
Submitted By: fishman on Mar 3, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


located far left on Broken Tooth. almost always shady. steep fingers,wide fingers goes into a slightly leaning, endless fist/rattly fist splitter. hard to see the anchors (which should probably be renovated).


(1ea.)#1 friend,.5,.75,1,2 camalot,(2ea.)#3,3.5 friends,(6-8)#4 friends. you can supplement with a few #4 camalots if #4 friends are in short supply.

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Rock Climbing Photo: some thug climbing ... Mondo THUG
some thug climbing ... Mondo THUG
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Comments on Mondo Add Comment
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By Kevin Volkening
Feb 8, 2012

By Hoez
From: Uganda
Aug 24, 2012

not a crack climber but this looks like a lot of fun... maybe ill make this my first crack climb
By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 21, 2012
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I hate to play the "hard size for my hand size" card, but this one felt ridiculously hard...much harder than at least three 5.13s at the Creek (Tricks, Optimator, Ruby's). I guess this is penance for all those thin hands cracks, which don't seem that hard. The crux move over the low roof seems just on the edge of possible, with the right-hand jam too rattly to really help. And the last 60 feet of new 4 camalots are just beyond rattly fists...requiring a lot of stacking with bad feet. One of the most aesthetic and challenging lines I've done anywhere.

Agreed that the anchor could use "modernization." I'll take the drill/bolts the next time I'm up there. But if someone beats me to it, let me know.
By John C
From: Moab
May 15, 2014

Truly great route—I agree that the anchor could probably use a little bit of updating. The left bolt is a spinning SMC buttonhead with an old sun-bleached piece of cord equalizing it with the right, which is the original Hong bolt with his initials on the hanger. If anyone does go to replace it, it would be pretty cool to try and leave the initialed, home-made Hong bolt, just for the sake of historical significance. Maybe just replace the SMC and add a third.
By Sam Feuerborn
Nov 3, 2014

Anchor updated with modern bolt and elimination of the tat!
By Raddam6
From: Salt Lake
May 8, 2016

The crux at the start felt 5.12-. The fist splitter would probably be 5.10c in Yosemite. I have big hands. Fist was rattely for one move.
By blue ribbon
From: Indian Creek, UT
May 29, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I couldn't imagine how any 5.12 Creek climber could honestly believe that Steve Hong graded this thing 12-. Just sayin'....
By slim
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

well, doing the start in converse all stars with sort of sticky rubber would kind of suck...

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