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Mona Lisa 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,566
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Jan 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Mona Lisa goes up the crack that starts just above...

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Stemming a dihedral eventually leads you up to the overhanging crack that constitutes the crux section on this work of art [okay, a little hyperbolic]. From here, you will utilize lie backs, finger locks, and even a hand jam to surmount the bulge. This is an engaging route with a great overhanging finish and is at least as fun as the over hyped edging of The Soft Parade.


Route #21 in the 2006 edition of Marty Karabin's Road Area guide. Go far left on the tall wall that is just left of Pocket Puzzle to find the bolted chute that is the start of Mona Lisa.


11 draws, including anchors

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By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Jan 10, 2010

Does anyone that has climbed this route know if there is a large runout between the 4th and the 5th bolt? I stared up at it awhile today and couldnt find one. Is there any amount of runout on the route?
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 20, 2010

No, Sevve, no large runouts I can recall. It gets a little more spaced on the bolting until you hit the upper crux, but the climbing in that section backs off in difficulty quite a bit. The crux is very well bolted with what look to be very clean falls.

I am fairly interested in the direct start, Bubba Lisa, myself. Is it the crack just left of Mona Lisa's start or the other crack over that constitutes this variation? Either one looks a little sporadic for pro, but I'd like to try it sometime.
By Fitz
From: Carbondale, CO
Dec 20, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Steve, I did it yesterday and I thought the same until I got on it. The bolt is not visible from the ground. Don't worry, well protected and a great route with interesting movement. Maybe my favorite route at the pond.
By BenClimbing
Dec 21, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Though the rock quality is a little sketchy in places and it isn't the most consistent route ever, I still felt very satisfied at the end. Very unique for QC sport climbing. Great sequence at the bulge up high. Has a nice spicey feel to it that meshes nicely with the tradesque (stems and jams) climbing. You might not like if this is a hard lead for you.
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
Nov 11, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is my new favorite at the Pond. Feels like a trad climb with thin jamming and lots of great stemming. Reminded me a bit of Coarse and Buggy in J-Tree. Highly recommended!

Has anyone led it all on gear? Seems like it would go.
By Adrian Montano
Dec 27, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Great route, sequence at the bulge was awesome. This route will always be in the list every visit to the Pond. I think it'll go on small to medium gear.

Quick note, careful with your rope getting stuck in the crux crack at the bulge. The angle while lowering makes it very easy to get caught.

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