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Mon Ami 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gordon Douglass & Frank Ray 1988
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: grk10vq on Sep 22, 2008

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The starting bolt for Mon Ami. Pretty Rock here

  • Park your car off of the main canyon road
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Mon Ami is NOT your friend.

    Still cleaning up a good twenty years later, Mon Ami is a ridiculous dance between pockets and small chips. Starting off easy, this route immediately gets down to business after the second bolt. What looks to be a rather harmless face, turns out to be a rather brutal kick in the teeth. Mon Ami is a delicate line, and by delicate I mean deteriorating.

    Climb up an amazing system of small pockets and smears passing two distinct cruxes, catch a quick rest or two, but don't get comfortable; finish on some fragile rock at a two bolt anchor. Wicked despite its somewhat poor quality!!

    A fantastic line that will only get better or harder with more traffic?


    At the very top of the shooting gallery on left side 25 feet above Blind Faith.


    Seven or Eight bolts to an anchor.

    Comments on Mon Ami Add Comment
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    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Sep 19, 2011
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Line of friendly pockets.... AAAAGGGHH! That's what you'll be shouting when you're trying to match your 2 fingers undercling with an index mono while standing on rapidly disaggregating "feet".
    Great line though, long moves, small holds, intricate, balancey, and the tat at the anchor is worth a picture!

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