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Chicken Wall
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Mommy Blocker 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, August, 1999
Page Views: 1,488
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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  • Description 

    This is located on 'The Chicken Wall' of the 'Clock Tower'. It is the 2nd route from the right of the old industrial bolts. It is a little squeezed with "Wessel In the Chicken Coop". Be careful clipping the first bolt, as there may be bat shit/piss all around. From here, continue up the arete/corner to the anchors. This is a short route but nonetheless a decent route for the intermediate leader. As mentioned, a little squeezed with the route directly right, as you could clip these bolts as well. Enjoy.


    5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

    Comments on Mommy Blocker Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 7, 2002
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Err.. 5.8 perhaps?
    By keith story
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 2, 2009

    It felt like a 5.10a to me, but this was right after working a few other problems on the wall, so it was probably fatigue kicking in. Fun route to climb though!
    By Paul Donald Andrews
    From: Nederland, Co.
    Aug 28, 2010
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Weird route, not really worth the effort it took to put in the bolts. Still, there were a few good moves and a couple of finger jams. A little zig-zaggy, pretty tough to follow the bolt line. A tad harder than the line to the right, but honestly, it didn't feel like 5.10 to me.
    By Hiro Kurotsuchi
    From: Colorado
    May 1, 2012

    Maybe I did it wrong, but the crux on the bolt line is not 5.10. Both my partner and I wouldn't do it on lead. Instead we traversed right, practically getting onto the Weasel next door as we went around.

    Overall, too short, do it if you're stuck waiting for something else.

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