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Momma's Squeeze Box T 
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Momma's Squeeze Box 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Bill Newman 1981
Page Views: 1,606
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 25, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: route photo

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


This route is a great intro for offwidth climbing. Climb the squeeze chimney to the top. It can be a bit dirty inside, but this does not really affect the climbing. About 20 Ft. below the top, there are several variations to the finish as the crack split to the right or straight up. Straight up appears to be the easiest finish, with very large gear for protection. The right crack can be made more difficult by exiting the chimney at the first opportunity(G gear).


Start at the base of the obvious wide chimney on a platform. This is just to the left of Concertina.


This takes on a PG rating unless big bros are used. Most of the chimney can be very adequately protected with small nuts and cams.

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