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Worm Drive
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Back Side Unknown 1 T 
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Chasm Approach T 
Dark Energy T 
Dark Matter T 
Driving Miss Wormy T 
Eight Ounces To Freedom T 
Momma's Got a Squeeze Box T 
Pigeon Nest Crack T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Momma's Got a Squeeze Box 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli and Lenore Sparks
New Route: Yes
Season: summer, fall, spring
Page Views: 1,160
Submitted By: lenore sparks on Aug 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Top out on block to right of the chimney and your ...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This climb is found between two huge blocks to the left of Sent for You Yesterday. It is an overhanging chimney that starts out as a stemming size and never gets small enough to use a #6 Camalot. The chimney stops with a block on top that contains a difficult, flared, hand jam (crux) to the anchors.


It is at the East end of Worm Drive crag left of Sent for You Yesterday.


Anchors are not so great - use carefully.

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By Christian Eaton
From: Colorado
Nov 2, 2016

This climb looks fantastic and not highly frequented. I'd love to hear more about the rack and maybe if those sketchy bolts have been replaced...? Thanks
By lenore sparks
From: Denver, Colorado
Nov 29, 2016

Just check the anchor bolts before you lower. I think they are fine but not the most badass in the world. Thailand style? I placed 4 bolts in the chimney, and I think I used a couple of hand-sized pieces. Get on it! :)

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