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Molestados Por Las Vacas T 

Molestados Por Las Vacas 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: K. Heatwole & G. Dooley, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 537
Submitted By: kirkadirka on Jan 20, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Molestado por las vacas from the base.

Description 

Perhaps the best moderately difficult route up Aguja Espina.

P1) Climb up the beautiful thin crack system passing a couple of small roofs before reaching a small ledge system. Step slightly down and right to belay. Amazing pitch. Gear anchor (5.11b, 30m).

P2) The crux. Follow the obvious thin crack as it arcs up and right towards a small roof feature. Pull past the roof and you are through the crux, follow the now vertical crack system on 5.10+/11- terrain to a pedestal on the right for a spectacular belay perch. Beware some suspect rock (can be avoided) just before stepping right onto the pedestal. The gear through the crux section is great but difficult to place. Brilliant pitch. Gear anchor (5.12c, 45m).

P3) From the belay, avoid the tempting (but hollow) large blocks immediately above and follow a steep ramp system up and right. This gradually steepens into a shallow, left facing dihedral. Continue up to a large ledge where you will encounter a set of rap anchors for the standard rappel route. Another great pitch (5.11b, 40m).

P4) From here you can either rappel or merge with the last pitch of the Mundo Interior/La Matuasta routes. Climb the friendly offwidth placing your big gear (#4 and optional #5 here). Above the offwidth head up and slightly left to reach the north ridge, then follow the bolt ladder to the summit anchors. Nice finish (5.10d, 40m).

DESCENT: Follow the standard rappel route as per Mundo Interior, making 3 double rope rappels.

Location 

Located on the West face of Aguja Espina. Approach the same as Mundo Interior. Find the base of La Matuasta and locate the thin crack system just right that goes through several small roofs, marking the first pitch. The second (crux) pitch should be obvious arcing up and right from the top of the first pitch.

Protection 

Double set of Camalots from #.1 to #2. Singles of #3 and #4. Optional #5 for the offwidth pitch. Full set of nuts from micro to regular. 2 ropes of at least 50 meters.


Photos of Molestados Por Las Vacas Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another look at the crux.
Another look at the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3.
Pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Towards the top of pitch 1.
Towards the top of pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top half of pitch 2.
Top half of pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Offwidth on pitch 4.
Offwidth on pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Pitch 2.
Start of Pitch 2.

Comments on Molestados Por Las Vacas Add Comment
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By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
Jan 22, 2014

The crux pitch has yet to see a clean lead. I freed all of the moves but was not able to put it all together. Go get it!

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