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Mole's Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,889
Submitted By: Aerili on Sep 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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BETA PHOTO: Snowshed Wall, east end.

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A short but beautiful almost laser-cut corner with a small roof to finish. This route would be classic if it was 2-3 times longer.


To the right of Telegraph Crack and directly up the hill from Nova Express. Rap anchors located just above the roof.

Edited by OP 8/2014: There have ALWAYS been Metolius rap hangers on this route for as long as I've known. All these misleading route notes about the existence/nonexistence of rap anchors on this route are posted by people who clearly don't recognize this type of hardware. That is all.


Gear to 2" possible. Expect this route to be more "in your face" for the grade than Telegraph Crack.

Photos of Mole's Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta photo  (attire style beta not necessarily inc...
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo (attire style beta not necessarily inc...
Rock Climbing Photo: John on Mole's Corner.
John on Mole's Corner.

Comments on Mole's Corner Add Comment
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By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Sep 23, 2012

Agreed with description. If this was longer it would be on par with something like Perfect Lieback in woodfords canyon. Really cool movements in the corner. Protects well.
By Spandex Jesionek
From: East Bay, CA
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Though short, a persistent dihedral with delicate footwork, especially for the grade. I believe I placed a BD .4, .5, a 2 deeper in 3/4 of the way up or so, and a .75 or 1 for the roof, which is cake with a jug a short reach away. True: at least 2 or 3 times longer and this would be really something. The stemming moves are really awesome for how brief the route is.

Conditions: I did this 6/2/13 and there were no rap rings; I lowered off two draws to clean, then hiked up 4th and easy 5th on the right side to retrieve draws.
By Jared-EMS
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 29, 2013

Route is only 40' but worth it. If it was 50'+ or longer, it would be crawling with crack addicts all day.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 25, 2013

A stubby specimen. The ladies wish it were longer. Not very taxing with good technique (i.e. a minimum of liebacking), but pretty fun after a bit of Morse code.

BTW: Those huge, thick ass metolius hangers are what you rap off. I wouldn't lower but a rap is fine through those.
By marc g
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 7, 2013

+1 to what spandex said. spot on
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jun 15, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I led this yesterday and found it a little more stout than it looked from the ground. The problem for me was placing pro without taking up my hand and finger jams. Delicate moves and a fun roof at the end make this worth doing.

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