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Mokelumne Wilderness

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Border Ruffian Flat 

Mokelumne Wilderness Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.53722, -120.09478 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,335
Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Dec 23, 2014
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Mokelumne is the cross-section of Sierra Nevada wild lands roughly between state highways 88 and 4, starting uphill from the Cal Dome area, crossing the crest beyond the Kirkwood ski resort, and spreading east. This section of the range is visibly more volcanic than most others, and so many tempting looking spires may turn out to be chossy where finicky climbers are concerned. But for those seeking yet more amazing mountain scenery, and, depending on the exact time and location, solitude, this is a fine and little-documented area to explore. Adventure awaits.

The Wilderness, formed by the U.S. government in 1964, is named for the Mokelumne River that flows through its heart. The river's current name, as recorded by the area's European settlers, comes from a Plains Miwok Village (essentially meaning, "home of the people who fish with nets") that was downstream from the current boundaries. The Miwok themselves call the river Wakalumitch.

The wilderness political boundaries are split between Eldorado and Stanislaus National Forests. Permits are required for overnight stays, and Carson Pass may have tighter limits due to its popularity and roadside accessibility. Check the website for the section you visit.

Getting There 

Highway 88 for the northern section, highway 4 for the southern, and smaller local roads for others.

Climbing Season

For the Central Sierra area.

Weather station 7.0 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Mokelumne Wilderness
Rock Climbing Photo: John and Ron start pitch 1.

South Face Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13  California : Central Sierra : ... : J.D. Peak
The path of least resistance the the summit, though not that apparent until you're right under it. Typically called class 4, and most moves on it are that: intuitively ladder-like. I called it easy 5th because there were a couple of distinctly climbingish moves on it that a scrambler wouldn't usually encounter (at the chimney, and especially starting the downclimb from the top). If using a rope, the summit route breaks naturally into two short pitches....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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