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Mojo Risin  

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Michael Zarnowski & Nick Benedix
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Jun 9, 2016

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Hold on and use every trick you have as the flake ...

Description 

Get you mojo on for this one. Way fun pumpy climbing out the thin flake is the focal point of the route but thought provoking moves on each end ice the cake.

Start up the left facing corner making sure to get protection in high enough before finding your way right to a rest before the flake. Move left placing good pro (#1 & .75) then onto the flake, yeah it's thin! Clip a bolt and stay moving until you can jam the horizontal at its end (#1 or a tight #2). Getting stood up into the horizontal crack is difficult a few more moves to the anchor are easy. Lower off.

Location 

About 75 feet right, uphill from Lurking in the bushes below the big left arching flake.

Protection 

Cams up to BD #1 or #2. Doubles in #1 are nice but there are other options too if you have only one I'd save it for the top. We didn't place nuts.


Photos of Mojo Risin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This climb is a perfect study in kneebars... Here ...
This climb is a perfect study in kneebars... Here ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route
The route
Rock Climbing Photo: Torie makes the committing step in to the business...
Torie makes the committing step in to the business...
Rock Climbing Photo: From down the hill
From down the hill

Comments on Mojo Risin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Jun 12, 2016

Nice work! About time someone did it!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 21, 2016

Great fun! Looks like it took a lot of cleaning so, nice work! Well protected and interesting the whole way. A great test of kneebar skills.

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