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Mojo  

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: fa Reed Dowdle & partner ffa J. Griffin Erin Wilson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,014
Submitted By: Justin Griffin on Aug 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

an incredible route, with lots of sustained climbing. first pitch is spicy first thing in the morning, but all there. traverse right into the corner at the top of pitch 2. 3 incredible pitches of 11 in a row brings you to the crux. tech 9 fingers and slab traverse*** both climbers should be fairly solid at the grade to attempt the crux, due to the traversing nature and sporty gear. otherwise there's a 5.10 option to the left that avoids piches 6 and 7, which is still an incredible route and lowers the grade to 11+/12-.. the 8th pitch is truly awesome , steep left leaning hands under a roof. this route's badass! if you're looking to work the crux you can run up the mtnrs route for 3 pitches and then take the right traversing hand crack at the base of the large diamond, kinda loose but moderate.. then rappel into crux, takes some kajankery to set a rope on, but doable..

Location 

start on Chasing the Dragon (100' left of mtnrs route)

Protection 

see topo


Photos of Mojo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 7
Pitch 7
Rock Climbing Photo: 7th pitch
7th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin following the splitter hands and lay back c...
Justin following the splitter hands and lay back c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin on the first pitch
Justin on the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: working the crux 6th pitch
working the crux 6th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 5, perfect fingers
pitch 5, perfect fingers
Rock Climbing Photo: topo
BETA PHOTO: topo

Comments on Mojo Add Comment
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By dave bingham
Jun 27, 2016

This is an amazing line in it's upper pitches, but it's hard to tell where this starts from the topo - Looks like its just l. of the Mountaineers, which is where "Chasing the Dragon" is. A better topo or photo-topo would be great. R.I.P. Justin.
By Erin Wilson
Aug 4, 2016

The first 2 pitches are the same as Chasing the Dragon. At P3, trend up and slightly right, cross over the Mountaineer's Route and pull a short roof to a finger crack. The next 4 pitches are stellar, after which, the route crosses Chasing the Dragon and then aims for a weakness in the large feature/roof. Climb out the roof at 5.11 and follow a splitter hand crack to the top (probably more like 5.8/5.9 than the 5.6 rating Justin gives on his topo). I'll post my topo of the route soon. One of the better routes I have done. Proud to share the send with Justin. Miss his tireless (at times "manic") energy.

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