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Lone Eagle Peak
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Mohling Traverse 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Franz Mohling
Page Views: 11,657
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Sep 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Joey Thompson on the ridge of Lone Eagle Peak.


This sustained excursion (lots of 4th and easy 5th class) starts on the summit of Lone Eagle Peak (reached either via the North Face Route or Solo Flight) and traverses south along a spectacular ridge to the seldom-visited summit of Iriquois (12,799).

From the summit of Lone Eagle follow the Solo Flight route south to the one point at which it drops over a notch onto the west side of the ridge. Descend 100 feet west down a gully and continue up and south on a grassy, diagonalling bench below the ridgeline.

Stay on the west side of the ridge and summit "Limbo," a 12,420 spire two-thirds of the way along the traverse, via its north face. Descend Limbo to a notch below the north face of Iriquois (I flipped over to the east side of the ridge to do this; some parties may want to rappel).

Climb Iriquois as best you can. The terrain is easier and more broken up on the west side of the north face.

This traverse has numerous easy fifth-class sections and plenty of options for either increasing or decreasing the difficulty. It's possible to escape east toward Triangle Lake in a couple of spots should weather move in, but once on Iriquois itself you're fairly committed.

If you're camped at Crater Lake you can either reverse the traverse until it's possible to descend to Crater Lake or go west from Iriquois' summit over Hopi and down Achonee's southeast gully. Alternately, continue east along another tricky, jagged ridge to the summit of Apache and make your way back east toward Brainard Lake as best you can. I continued over Navajo and down Niwot Ridge for full flavor . . .


If you're breaking this up into pitches then you may never get there . . . A light rack and a small-diameter 60-meter rope should be sufficient.

Photos of Mohling Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Limbo's north face.
BETA PHOTO: Limbo's north face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Profile of the Mohling Traverse.
Profile of the Mohling Traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Between Limbo & Iroquois on the Mohling Traverse.
Between Limbo & Iroquois on the Mohling Traverse.

Comments on Mohling Traverse Add Comment
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By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Jul 26, 2004

Mohling is on the West and Solo Flight traverses the East? Correct?

Nice tricam placements on the 2d ridge from the summet of Lone Eagle on the Mohling side.
By Scott Upton
Sep 3, 2004

Photos and a full description of a recent trip on this route (9/2/2004) can be found here: .
By Scott Upton
Sep 6, 2004

I just realized my original comment included only a 1-star rating... This was an error. It's a greatroute, but no Matthes Crest, so I give it 2 out of 3.
By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
May 23, 2005

Is it possible to do the traverse by ascending Fare Glacier over to Iriquois to the ridge between Iriquois to the summit of Lone Eagle?
By Rogerlarock
From: Nedsterdam, Colorado
Jul 16, 2010

I've gotta say that if you go up there expecting 5.2 then you may be in for a surprise. Quite a bit harder in my opinion. (I am old and weak....)
By Ryan Marsters
Sep 7, 2014

Avoid the white gully ascending to a notch right of Iriquois. Instead, scramble just above and left of the gully on relatively more solid terrain.
By Aaron Ramras
Jul 25, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Nice remote ridge line. For clarification, most of the descent off of Limbo toward Iriquois is done on the west side of the ridge (2nd and 3rd class). The final drop to the low point between the two peaks has rap slings. We did not have a rope, so we backtracked up the ridge about 200ft and found some steep low 5th class downclimbing leading down to a ledge system on the east side of the ridge which gains the low notch below the rappel.
By Ryan Marsters
Jul 28, 2015

From the rap station, continue turning the corner onto the N side of the ridge. Look for the ledge below. Very exposed 2nd class leading to a 4th class downclimb via a chimney. No need to regain.

Looking back at the rap. Weaknesses on the right/N side can be DCed at 4th.

By Nathaniel Pearson
Oct 2, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Profile shot of Lone Eagle, "Limbo", and...
Profile shot of Lone Eagle, "Limbo", and "Iroquis" from the northeast on Pawnee Peak.

Profile shot of Lone Eagle, "Limbo", and "Iroquis" from the northeast on Pawnee Peak.

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