|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 330', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Robert Warren, Max Kendall, April 1988|
|Submitted By:||Ben Kiessel on Nov 9, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Mogul Emperor||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Brad Brandewie
Nov 12, 2009
I didn't say that this route sucked, just that it is definitely not for everyone. I would give it 2.5 stars for the climbing and 3.5 stars for adventure.
A few thoughts...
The rappels are longer than they seem from the rim. We were wondering if we would make it with two ropes?... not even close.
The first pitch was rated 5.8 in DR4. It's more like loose 5.10- with a giant detached flake about 2/3rds of the way up. Still, it had some fun climbing.
The second pitch was the best on the route. Definitely keep a big cam for above the roof.
The third pitch is the one that precludes me from recommending this route to most people. It starts out fine with a wide crack and shimmy though to the other side of the tower and up some fun ledges. Sounds good right? The issue is that you are then looking at some serious climbing with one lone piton to protect you. Even if you aid on the pin, you will still have to launch into some 5.10 face climbing that's gritty and insecure.
Jeff and I both agreed that if Ben hadn't led this pitch, we would have bailed. Nice lead partner!
If you're a desert rat and comfortable on remote and spooky 5.10 face climbing then have at it. It's good stuff. Otherwise, maybe bring a rope gun for the last pitch.
By Max Kendall
From: Ouray, CO
Jan 27, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
|this is a classic 5.11 tower in Canyonlands!|
By Ben Kiessel
Jan 30, 2010
Great route Max! Really good free climbing!
I agree with the 5.11 rating save one move on the last pitch. I would guess that some of the holds got a little smaller over the years? Or who knows, maybe you're right and it's 5.11.
By Brad Brandewie
Aug 10, 2011
|More photos and a trip report at piquaclimber.net|