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Modern routes in Yosemite: is it now okay to bolt next to a crack?
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Sep 15, 2016
If it means you don't have to carry a big cam on your rack?
If it means less runout on the pitch?
If it means you don't have to place gear in so-so rock?

Basically, if it increases convenience or reduces risk (to some undefined but small'ish degree), is it okay to bolt next to a crack in Yosemite?

Would like to hear the opinion of anyone who has an opinion, and particularly anyone who has done or is putting up what I hear referred to as "modern routes" in the Valley. We've done a few of these new routes over the last few seasons, and have come to wonder where the majority opinion among Valley climbers falls.

Not talking anchor bolts, though there's a legitimate question there as well. Asking about mid-pitch lead bolts next to cracks that would take gear. So what say you: is that kosher now?
Plums
Joined Sep 15, 2016
15 points
Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing!
Getting out the popcorn. C Brooks
From Fresno, CA
Joined Feb 8, 2015
176 points
Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Moss
No. Jason Todd
From Cody, WY
Joined Apr 21, 2012
713 points
Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: wicked jacket boner in the bugs
god I hope thats not kosher Matt Carroll
Joined Dec 9, 2013
43 points
Sep 15, 2016
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Plums: Member Since: Sep 15, 2016

Nuff said
WadeM
Joined Apr 22, 2010
390 points
Administrator
Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Enter the Colossus
WadeM wrote:
Plums: Member Since: Sep 15, 2016 Nuff said


Always the first check i do...
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,902 points
Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Hookin it
Morgan Patterson wrote:
Always the first check i do...


The idea behind this thread screams hellenor, however, there weren't enough grammatical errors to convince me...
Leify Guy
Joined Jul 9, 2013
386 points
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Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the lip on Angle of the Dangle. Photo by S...
Troll Micah Klesick
From Vancouver, WA
Joined Aug 18, 2013
4,237 points
Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: On the steep sport wall on the back side of Echo C...
But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton?
... Syrian refugees? Gender identity?
NeilB
From Tehachapi, CA
Joined Apr 9, 2014
47 points
Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing!
^ hahahahaha! C Brooks
From Fresno, CA
Joined Feb 8, 2015
176 points
Administrator
Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading "Clocher - clochetons Traverse" ...
I like the way he concedes that this question *might* just apply to anchors as well - very nice nuance to this troll. It's like presenting just the right fly to the trout, you know? Doug Hemken
Joined Oct 1, 2004
5,783 points
Sep 15, 2016
NeilB wrote:
But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton? ... Syrian refugees? Gender identity?


I think Trump is the best candidate for climbers due to the new route opportunities on the Mexican border wall.
Jacob Staelin
Joined Feb 24, 2016
1 points
Sep 15, 2016
I'm curious what routes you're talking about specifically. The only one I can think of is the 4th pitch of The Great Escape on Chapel Wall - fully bolted TCU size crack. I'd think that pitch in its current state would be highly controversial in a place like Yosemite.

The only reason I can think of to bolt that pitch, that makes any sense to me, is that it wouldn't get get climbed much if left unbolted, i.e. most climbers would rap after completing the 3rd pitch since they'd prefer to not haul up a rack for only one pitch.
CBecker
From Portland, OR
Joined Mar 30, 2015
18 points
Sep 15, 2016
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Pretty much the standard now in modern climbing. Double Cross in Jtree was the forerunner in this new modern protection philosophy but it keeps getting chopped, BASTARDS!!! Kevin Mokracek
From Burbank
Joined Apr 5, 2012
192 points
Sep 15, 2016
Shouldn't you ask Erik Sloan the self appointed bolt King?

Just stirring the pot
djh860
Joined Dec 28, 2014
105 points
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Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Enter the Colossus
djh860 wrote:
Shouldn't you ask Erik Sloan the self appointed bolt King? Just stirring the pot


Woot Woot!!!11111


derp
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,902 points
Sep 15, 2016
bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: modern
modern


pin
Rock Climbing Photo: pic 2
pic 2


bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: pic 3
pic 3


Assuming the above increased either safety or convenience to a degree - can avoid carrying big cam (pic 1), can avoid finding placement among so-so flakes (pic 3), don't have to run the rope or risk bigger fall (pic 1) - are they kosher by Yosemite standard in your opinion?

I have no wish to flame any FAists, whose time and toil I respect, and I ain't mad. With this thread, I'm trying to gauge whether Valley climbers feel that "modern" routes are exempt from what most (I think? maybe I'm wrong) would consider to be Yosemite tradition/style.
Plums
Joined Sep 15, 2016
15 points
Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: urrr
No. Not acceptable. But don't go ripping shit out. If Wootboy has taught us anything, it's that people are going to act with impunity and do whatever they damned well please.

Also, there is no way, unless you have the FA tell you themselves, that you could know whether or not the FA bolted that or not.

What route, what pitch?
don'tchuffonme
Joined Jan 13, 2014
25 points
Sep 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
Uh...couldn't this logic apply to ANY trad climb? Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
183 points
Administrator
Sep 15, 2016
The Nose has had a bolt right next to the #2 Stovelegs for years. 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,214 points
Sep 15, 2016
NeilB wrote:
But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton? ... Syrian refugees? Gender identity?


Trump would totally bolt a crack. Hillary's been bolting cracks for years but always denies it. And those fucking syrian refugees are a bunch of grid bolters. Theres a crack joke related to gender identity but I'm just not quite getting there.
mediocre
Joined Jul 18, 2013
0 points
Oct 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Linville Gorge!
Placing big cams is just about the most fun, glorious thing you can do. Why ruin it? Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
512 points
Oct 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: goats yah
Jacob Staelin wrote:
I think Trump is the best candidate for climbers due to the new route opportunities on the Mexican border wall.


It's gonna be yuuuuuuuuge!
calebmmallory
From NC, Seattle, and Hong Kong
Joined Jun 5, 2015
380 points


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