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Modern routes in Yosemite: is it now okay to bolt next to a crack?
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Sep 15, 2016
If it means you don't have to carry a big cam on your rack?
If it means less runout on the pitch?
If it means you don't have to place gear in so-so rock?

Basically, if it increases convenience or reduces risk (to some undefined but small'ish degree), is it okay to bolt next to a crack in Yosemite?

Would like to hear the opinion of anyone who has an opinion, and particularly anyone who has done or is putting up what I hear referred to as "modern routes" in the Valley. We've done a few of these new routes over the last few seasons, and have come to wonder where the majority opinion among Valley climbers falls.

Not talking anchor bolts, though there's a legitimate question there as well. Asking about mid-pitch lead bolts next to cracks that would take gear. So what say you: is that kosher now?
Plums
Joined Sep 15, 2016
0 points
Sep 15, 2016
Getting out the popcorn. C Brooks
From Fresno, CA
Joined Feb 8, 2015
253 points
Sep 15, 2016
No. Jason Todd
From Cody, WY
Joined Apr 21, 2012
455 points
Sep 15, 2016
god I hope thats not kosher Matt Carroll
Joined Dec 9, 2013
5 points
Sep 15, 2016
Plums: Member Since: Sep 15, 2016

Nuff said
WadeM
Joined Apr 22, 2010
210 points
Administrator
Sep 15, 2016
WadeM wrote:
Plums: Member Since: Sep 15, 2016 Nuff said


Always the first check i do...
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,157 points
Sep 15, 2016
Morgan Patterson wrote:
Always the first check i do...


The idea behind this thread screams hellenor, however, there weren't enough grammatical errors to convince me...
Leify Guy
Joined Jul 9, 2013
251 points
Administrator
Sep 15, 2016
Troll Micah Klesick
From Vancouver, WA
Joined Aug 18, 2013
3,989 points
Sep 15, 2016
But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton?
... Syrian refugees? Gender identity?
NeilB
From Tehachapi, CA
Joined Apr 9, 2014
30 points
Sep 15, 2016
^ hahahahaha! C Brooks
From Fresno, CA
Joined Feb 8, 2015
253 points
Administrator
Sep 15, 2016
I like the way he concedes that this question *might* just apply to anchors as well - very nice nuance to this troll. It's like presenting just the right fly to the trout, you know? Doug Hemken
Joined Oct 1, 2004
5,235 points
Sep 15, 2016
NeilB wrote:
But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton? ... Syrian refugees? Gender identity?


I think Trump is the best candidate for climbers due to the new route opportunities on the Mexican border wall.
Jacob Staelin
Joined Feb 24, 2016
0 points
Sep 15, 2016
I'm curious what routes you're talking about specifically. The only one I can think of is the 4th pitch of The Great Escape on Chapel Wall - fully bolted TCU size crack. I'd think that pitch in its current state would be highly controversial in a place like Yosemite.

The only reason I can think of to bolt that pitch, that makes any sense to me, is that it wouldn't get get climbed much if left unbolted, i.e. most climbers would rap after completing the 3rd pitch since they'd prefer to not haul up a rack for only one pitch.
Chuck Becker
From Portland, OR
Joined Mar 30, 2015
10 points
Sep 15, 2016
Pretty much the standard now in modern climbing. Double Cross in Jtree was the forerunner in this new modern protection philosophy but it keeps getting chopped, BASTARDS!!! Kevin Mokracek
From Burbank
Joined Apr 5, 2012
45 points
Sep 15, 2016
Shouldn't you ask Erik Sloan the self appointed bolt King?

Just stirring the pot
djh860
Joined Dec 28, 2014
0 points
Administrator
Sep 15, 2016
djh860 wrote:
Shouldn't you ask Erik Sloan the self appointed bolt King? Just stirring the pot


Woot Woot!!!11111


derp
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,157 points
Sep 15, 2016
bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: modern
modern


pin
Rock Climbing Photo: pic 2
pic 2


bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: pic 3
pic 3


Assuming the above increased either safety or convenience to a degree - can avoid carrying big cam (pic 1), can avoid finding placement among so-so flakes (pic 3), don't have to run the rope or risk bigger fall (pic 1) - are they kosher by Yosemite standard in your opinion?

I have no wish to flame any FAists, whose time and toil I respect, and I ain't mad. With this thread, I'm trying to gauge whether Valley climbers feel that "modern" routes are exempt from what most (I think? maybe I'm wrong) would consider to be Yosemite tradition/style.
Plums
Joined Sep 15, 2016
0 points
Sep 15, 2016
No. Not acceptable. But don't go ripping shit out. If Wootboy has taught us anything, it's that people are going to act with impunity and do whatever they damned well please.

Also, there is no way, unless you have the FA tell you themselves, that you could know whether or not the FA bolted that or not.

What route, what pitch?
don'tchuffonme
Joined Jan 13, 2014
0 points
Sep 15, 2016
Uh...couldn't this logic apply to ANY trad climb? Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
40 points
Administrator
Sep 15, 2016
The Nose has had a bolt right next to the #2 Stovelegs for years. 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,123 points
Sep 15, 2016
NeilB wrote:
But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton? ... Syrian refugees? Gender identity?


Trump would totally bolt a crack. Hillary's been bolting cracks for years but always denies it. And those fucking syrian refugees are a bunch of grid bolters. Theres a crack joke related to gender identity but I'm just not quite getting there.
mediocre
Joined Jul 18, 2013
0 points
Oct 20, 2016
Placing big cams is just about the most fun, glorious thing you can do. Why ruin it? Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
70 points
Oct 20, 2016
Jacob Staelin wrote:
I think Trump is the best candidate for climbers due to the new route opportunities on the Mexican border wall.


It's gonna be yuuuuuuuuge!
calebmmallory
From NC, Seattle, and Hong Kong
Joined Jun 5, 2015
175 points


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