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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Friends in High Places T 
Ice Nine T 
Jericho T 
Joke Crack to Superstone T 
Knight's Move T 
Laughing at the Moon T 
Ministry of Fear T,TR 
Modern Defense T 
Muscular Dystrophy T 
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Whiplash T 

Modern Defense 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b X [details]
FA: Chris Weidner, May 1, 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on May 1, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Route line.

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  • Description 

    Climb 20 feet up a wide crack on the left side of a pillar to a rocky ledge. Place several small to medium cams as high as possible in the right-leaning corner. This is the only gear until it’s well below your feet. I placed a crashpad on the ledge for peace of mind (I’d recently witnessed a compound tib/fib fracture at Movement) though its benefits were questionable.

    Crank a steep, powerful boulder problem on great rock to a break with good gear. Continue more easily up the leaning crack and seam to a dead tree below a roof. Traverse right beneath the roof on red, broken rock joining the final 15 feet of Jeep to a two-bolt anchor.

    • I rehearsed this well on toprope before leading it.
    The EASIEST way to set up a TR is to climb Halo (5.9 R), ten feet right of Modern Defense, and make an anchor from #1 and #2 Camalots in the roof above the dead tree. However, Halo is a dangerous lead with plentiful lichen and some loose rock. I cleaned it up some, but don't underestimate its challenge.

    The SAFEST way to set up a TR is to climb to the two-bolt anchor above Friends in High Places. Use double-length slings off the bolts, and lower carefully rightward to the same roof anchor above Halo. There is a pin and a solid cam halfway to the roof while lowering to minimize the risk of a big swing.

    Location 

    Modern Defense is ten feet right of Ministry of Fear and ten feet left of Halo on the upper West Ridge.

    Protection 

    1 each: #00 Metolius-#2 Camalot (including a #0/1 Offset Metolius for the initial corner); RPs.
    2 each: #0.5 Camalot.
    Several long slings.


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    Rock Climbing Photo: The meat of the route.
    BETA PHOTO: The meat of the route.

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