Modern Day Warrior
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Brian Benedon, Steve Tucker, Mike Minehart, Pat Gilbreath Nov. 1997 |
Page Views: | 3,952 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | JMayhew on Jul 28, 2010 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Restrictions January 1 - April 30
Details
There is an annual closure from Jan 1 - Apr 30 prohibiting travel more than 400' off of established trails due to bighorn sheep lambing season. The current order can be found here ( fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…) but will be extended when the current order expires.
Description
[OK-- it's not really a "new" route, but it was never logged anywhere officially, for no particular reason.]
1. Climb easy, weedy wall to belay bolt just left of the start of the S crack.
2. Up crack to bolted belay. (5.9+ 145)
3. Follow main system past old bail-off bolt, then out roof to the right, past 4 bolts to bolted belay. (5.10a 170) (Its possible to belay on ledges midway through pitch)
4. Up cracks, out small roof, past bolt to belay. (5.10 110)
5. Climb flakes to face, past 2 bolts, then back into crack. Belay at top. (5.8+ 155)
1. Climb easy, weedy wall to belay bolt just left of the start of the S crack.
2. Up crack to bolted belay. (5.9+ 145)
3. Follow main system past old bail-off bolt, then out roof to the right, past 4 bolts to bolted belay. (5.10a 170) (Its possible to belay on ledges midway through pitch)
4. Up cracks, out small roof, past bolt to belay. (5.10 110)
5. Climb flakes to face, past 2 bolts, then back into crack. Belay at top. (5.8+ 155)
Location
This beautiful, S shaped crack system is located on Table Mt., way right of Cherry Jam and the original descent gully. The FA team spent 2 ½ years on this project resulting in a sweet line filled with stemming, laybacking, jamming, and roof moves for 4 long pitches after the initial approach pitch. If youre into the camping type of assault, (Pima Canyon approach working better for this,) theres a beautiful (dry) camp spot at the top of the route.
Approach: [both options take 2.5 to 5 hrs.]
Option A: From base of Cherry Jam, hike right to the base of the descent gully and gear up, leaving packs there. Walk, rap, and traverse right until possible to scramble up through vegetation toward base of S crack. Belay from stunted pine tree backed up with large cams.
Option B: Park in Pima Canyon lot (overnight permit: 740-2690) and hike to top of Table Mt. Drop down original descent gully then walk, rap, and traverse (climbers) right until possible to scramble up through vegetation toward base of S crack. Belay from stunted pine tree backed up with large cams.
Descent: Hike (climbers) left to original descent gully. 2 single rope raps and a down climb to base of gully (or 4 single rope raps in snowy/wet conditions.)
Approach: [both options take 2.5 to 5 hrs.]
Option A: From base of Cherry Jam, hike right to the base of the descent gully and gear up, leaving packs there. Walk, rap, and traverse right until possible to scramble up through vegetation toward base of S crack. Belay from stunted pine tree backed up with large cams.
Option B: Park in Pima Canyon lot (overnight permit: 740-2690) and hike to top of Table Mt. Drop down original descent gully then walk, rap, and traverse (climbers) right until possible to scramble up through vegetation toward base of S crack. Belay from stunted pine tree backed up with large cams.
Descent: Hike (climbers) left to original descent gully. 2 single rope raps and a down climb to base of gully (or 4 single rope raps in snowy/wet conditions.)
5 Comments