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Model Worker 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: P1 short: Greg Olsen, Jon Nelson. P1 full: Terry Lien, Max Dufford, Greg Olsen
Page Views: 5,372
Submitted By: Jesse James on Apr 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Jenny Abegg working the lower half of Model Worker...

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


This terrific pitch is best done as one long pitch, skip the first anchors where there used to be a stump (thanks for removing this!!!) The crux is just before the first bolt on the upper section, and is protected by small cams or nuts. Although, I think the lower part is just as hard. This climb is probably damn near impossible for short people, unless you are good at sideways shoulder wrenching dynos.


Just right of Princely Ambitions. Requires two raps to the ground, stopping at the first anchor, or a lower one on the neighboring route.


You can slot an inverted small carabiner in the hole before the first bolt, but may cause rope drag problems. You will want some gear to fill in the gaps between the bolts on the upper section.

Photos of Model Worker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sonnie starting up Model Worker, Going to give it ...
Sonnie starting up Model Worker, Going to give it ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Technical Crux
Technical Crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Model Worker
Model Worker
Rock Climbing Photo: Technical  Crux
Technical Crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicola Masciandaro on Model Worker (5.11c), Index ...
Nicola Masciandaro on Model Worker (5.11c), Index ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shifting to headpoint in the middle of a Model Wor...
Shifting to headpoint in the middle of a Model Wor...

Comments on Model Worker Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 17, 2016
By danelle
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 21, 2008

If you are short, it may take a little magical levitation. It took me SO long to get this move by getting my feet up really high and reaching for the crimp. I tried this move many many times with the same beta, but somehow i just magically levitated this last time.
By Drewsky
Jul 13, 2008

The sideways dyno to the ledge is indeed shoulder wrenching; I found that it is possible to climb via stemming moves directly above the first bolt, with the crux being shifting one's weight over to the aforementioned ledge. Although I haven't led it this way, the (first) bolt would be no more than 3 feet beneath you, so it's a viable option for those of us under 5'11".
By dcramer
Jul 14, 2008

There are only two bolts (about 6' apart) on the section above the first anchor and the climbing above them is non-trivial.
By danelle
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 19, 2008

Yeah the stemming move is the way if you are under 5'3...
By Eric Hirst
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A #2 Camp Ball nut (Lowe Ball) really helps above the last bolt on the upper section, especially if the seep up there is seeping.

The upper section feels quite a bit easier to me (11a?) than the lower section, although maybe my slab skills haven't kept up. The rock quality on the final moves feels a little spooky to me though. I've finished straight up (R of the bush) both times I've done this.
By Gabe S
Mar 25, 2013

The lower pin pulled out on a lead fall in 2010-2011, the leader took a long whipper. It has since been replaced with a SS bolt. This was done to protect the flake. Hammering a new piton in would have broken the flake, causing a serious change to the nature of the climb.

FYI...The old pin was only hammered in about 1/3 of an inch. So all you who took falls and lowered off it for 15 years, thank your lucky stars.

The first half of the climb gets 4 stars...The second gets 3 stars after a slight cleaning. The upper section of the climb has had both bolts replaced and the anchor replaced in the past 3 years....Enjoy!
By Chris Kalman
Jul 6, 2013

I just did the full pitch and found my 70 too short (by about 10 meters) to lower from the upper anchors. I'm fairly confident there are no other anchors I missed, and the way I did the route was definitely 5 stars all the way, so probably the proper line. Either way, watch your ends when lowering... You can easily pull the rope and rethread at the lower anchors if it is too short for the upper.
By Douglas T
Aug 18, 2013

Far better when done as one long pitch. The old stump is gone, the old bolts higher up replaced and the pulled pin replaced with a bolt. 70 Meter ropes are the standard at Index now so why stop early. Keep going. It's beautiful up there.
Rock Climbing Photo: Model Worker Full
Model Worker Full
By blakeherrington
Nov 25, 2013

The full P1 is ~40m (80m barely lowers off). You can easily lower to the short (~15m up) anchors on Model Worker or the anchors atop Numbah Ten and belay from either before rapping. Several moves before the short MW anchor each feels harder to me than the moves on the 2nd part of the pitch, thought I think the 2nd part of the pitch has better climbing.

A good 5.11 continuation is via Tadpole and Newest Industry.
By kerwinl
Jun 6, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

For the full pitch a single rack from Purple C3 -> BD#2 + a few extra in the 0.2-0.4 range should be sufficient. Bring a few slings to extend placements up near the top of the pitch.
By Stamati Anagnostou
Jun 19, 2015

The hardest move for me is the rockover at the second bolt of the first pitch. I stuck it once (out of god knows how many tries) only to fall off the foot switch move right after. Any beta on how to improve my odds on that move?
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 21, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

"That route looks awesome." ~Sonnie Trotter
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 26, 2015

Kerwin's rack beta is spot on. Doubles to 0.4 and singles to #2 was just right to let you always have the gear you need, but not carry an excess amount.

I lowered to the ground from the upper anchor with an 80, and got down with ~2 meters to spare. Knot the end!
By Jon Todorovich
Jun 17, 2016

Agree with Chris on the quality of the full pitch. With Mountain Project's star scale, I definitely give the full thing all 4 stars and the first half 3. No reason not to do the full thing - it's a blast up there!
Also agree with Kerwin on the gear beta. You'll probably want to extend most of your gear placements above the first half so bring plenty of runners.

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