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Mocos Locos 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Scott Beguin, 2000
Page Views: 598
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Rick on the first ascent.

Description 

Make a committing move off the block, then up with ground fall potential past a couple more bolts in a left facing corner (bolts are to the right out on the face and difficult to see). Step out of the corner around the arete to the right (crux) and up a slabby section. Continue up the steep face on good holds wandering a bit, mostly right when things get thin. At the anchor, the clipping hold out left is a loose block! be careful. There is a fixed rope to the right of the anchor, presumably to access La Nariz.

Location 

Near the low point of the wall starting off a 4-5' tall platform and climbing Very black rock, so the chalk shows up really well.

Protection 

Bolts and anchor hooks.


Photos of Mocos Locos Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Elliott Waldron on "Mocos Locos."
Elliott Waldron on "Mocos Locos."

Comments on Mocos Locos Add Comment
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By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 10, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

FA was by Rick Bradshaw and (correction) Scott Beguin in 2000. I like this route because the holds are sort of ergonomic (we've come to call this type of rock "pillowy basalt") and because it rewards good balance and rhythm (even though I struggle with both). It's worth doing by itself, but combining it with La Naris makes for a somewhat adventurous but rewarding 5.11 outing.
By chipacles
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

The first five clips are pretty heady. Making the crux move out of the dihedral and onto the face for (I think) the third clip is scary...falling here could be bad. After the fifth bolt, it's not heady anymore, but you've still got 8 clips to go and it's pretty sustained climbing. Fun route.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

i agree with chip, a fall above the 3rd bolt (crux section) would be painful. stellar line

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