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Crag of Fear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birthday Boy TR 
Buckets Stop Here, The S,TR 
Burnin' Rubber S 
Guano a Guano T,TR 
Mocha T,TR 
Smokin' Joints S,TR 
Tibble TR 
Tiptoe Through The Two Lips S,TR 
Unemployment Line S 
Who's Nailin' Palin S,TR 


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: a rodent?
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 21, 2011

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Dave on the right finish, right of the bolt hole.


Do you want some microscopic amount of adventure? On the far right side of the east face, there is a line that can take some gear. Just to its left are 2 chalk dots of a project line close to the ground. On lead, we discovered someone has drilled a hole up high on the left finish.

About 20 feet to the right of Burning Rubber, there is a tiny right-facing dihedral. Pull aboard, place some cams, be a bit careful with some of the flakes here. Gain a ledge. From here, there are 2 finishes. Slightly to the left, you can sift through a variety of face holds to find a solid path upward. Slightly to the right, you can gingerly stand on the flake and reach right. Either way, you probably don't want to blow these moves above the ledge.

Obviously, this feature may have been climbed previously. If it is your route, accept our apologies for giving it a playful name and tell us the name and other info and we'll update it. For now, the name is in honor of Dave's loyal dog.

Subsequent to this initial posting, Dan Hare and Rich Perch bolted and ascended a line called Smokin' Joints, 5.10, on 8/4/11, that joins Mocha at about half height.


About 20 feet to the right of Burning Rubber, there is a tiny right-facing dihedral.


#0.75, 2, 1 Camalots. Anchors / directionals can be a #0.5 with a 6' sling, purple Alien (0.75 size) with a 4' sling, and to the left above Burning Rubber you can get a #3.5 Camalot, and the 2 bolt anchor of Burning Rubber.

Note, the upper bit of this climb is now bolted with the last two bolts of Smokin' Joints...which makes it no longer PG-13 or R rated.

Photos of Mocha Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave at the start.
Dave at the start.

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