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Arete, The S 
Blue Velvet S 
Cliff Nazi S 
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cracker jack T 
El Nino S 
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Lech S 
Mocè S 
Pillar of Pummel S 
Pokey S 
Rational Expectation S 
Roof, The S 
Side Straddle Hop S 
Sloopy S 
Squeeze S 
Tree Route, The S 
Warm Up S 

Mocè 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: John Hymer
Page Views: 220
Submitted By: DaveT on May 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

A challenging example of vertical, insecure Tunnel climbing. It's mostly sloped horizontals, but not entirely - there are some different, fun sequences.

This thing feels continuously hard with one decent rest and the odd shake opportunity. There are some beta options: a trick that is generally considered helpful at the upper crux, and some options for the other cruxes, depending on your strengths.

It used to be graded 12d back when John was lapping it as a warmup, but is now generally considered to be on the harder end of the Shady Side 13a routes.

Location 

Guchi's sister route, just to her right. A few routes right of the massive roof of The Roof.

Protection 

6 bolts (used to be 4!). Stick clip recommended as the moves off the ground are tough.


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